In search of the ark Hoeva

17.05.2004

17.05.2004


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Turkey does not have the money to excavate ancient sites

Some of the classics said: "A country with a great past — a great future." "Bloodline" Turkey would envy any state. Want to find out where she lived for the last few days the mother of Christ? And solve the mystery of the treasures of Troy? Find Noah's ark and take a dip in the hot springs of Cleopatra's favorite? Travel to Turkey.

In the wake of Pirates
— Do you know where is Mount Ararat? — Asks us blue-eyed guide Musfi.
— In Armenia enii! — Pulls together the bus.
Musfi raises his eyebrows in surprise:
— No, in Turkey. Armenia, of course, far from here, but the mountain — our. It was there that British scientists have found Noah's Ark — a ship frozen into the ice lake at the top of the mountain. However, scholars still argue over whether this is the ark or not. Mount Olympus, by the way, is also in Turkey, not in Greece, as many believe. Do you know where invented parchment? In the Turkish city of Pergamum. Here was built library containing 200,000 volumes.
On the way from the airport, our guide not only held a small educational program, but also taught us a few Turkish words: "Guzel" — beautiful, "fool" — stop "shed" — the palace.
— So if you need to drive to the hotel, for example, in Antalya, tell the driver: "Fool, Antalya! Shed, a mess! "In-legged mess — it's glass.
While there is a "lesson in Turkish," I gaze at squalid houses of local residents — rickety fences, walls crumbling shops, reminding our Russian slums. In Turkey, as in any resort, the two sides: the visible — for tourists, and the invisible — for those who serve the guests. On every roof mounted solar panels — in Turkey, there is no central heating, and heat in the house depends only on clear weather. Wealthy Turks can afford to own boilers or air conditioning, while others use coal and gas. The Turks — good builders, their hands raised up bridges and skyscrapers in the United States, Canada, Europe. But that's modern architectural buildings in Turkey are far from perfect. High-rise buildings for the middle class is to build the first earthquake. And they are in Turkey occur almost every year. Destroyed buildings being demolished and in their place erect new ones.
Tours of the ancient cities of Lycia enjoyed by the Russian tourists in great demand.
— Russian very intelligent and educated, with them wondering — confessed our guide. — But such unorganized! I always warn late for five minutes, leave without you. And still going an hour!

Mausoleum for the feudal lord
One of the items on our tour — the largest and most ancient city of Lycia Fetiya. Strong earthquake destroyed much of the city's monuments, preserved only rock tombs. Once upon a time it was believed at the Lycians — the higher you are buried, the faster you get there to God. The highest graves were the rich, and lower — middle class, the poor were buried in the ground. The sarcophagus was cut into the rock and had the shape of the house with a roof and windows. Along with the deceased were placed in it the necessary utensils, jewelry, expensive things late. Door-entry after the funeral bricked.
— The rich pre-built sarcophagi were proud of them, comparing who above who have more, and proudly said, "Here I will live up to its next incarnation on earth."
Now sarcophagi looted, but the rocks are preserved forever carved "houses."
— Generally in Turkey at every step of antiquity. Shoe dig and you will come across the ancient city or the grave — explains our guide Musfi. No money. It is necessary because these ancient and still restore and protect.
See these greenhouses? Underneath the ancient city. But the owner of the land does not want to sell it — the price fills, but the state can not pay. And grow tomatoes and oranges on archaeological antiquities.

The Holy Land of Santa Claus
— Well, about Ararat you do not know about the parchment too. But at least you know where he was born Santa Claus? — Asks exhausted our ignorance guide.
— In Great Ustjug — shouted someone from our group.
— In Finland! No, in Norway!
— Again, do not guess. In Turkey!
We look at each other with a neighbor. Someone pointedly turns his finger to his temple.
— Santa Claus or Saint Nicholas — a real person, a bishop who lived in the first half of the IV century BC in the World. For the poor and the extraordinary wonders of his canonized and named Nicholas. This is one of the most revered saints, patron of sailors, the poor and children. According to legend, the bishop of the poor tossed money so that they can marry off their daughters. Once he pulled the bag of money on the chimney, and he fell into a stocking, sushivshiysya the stove. Hence the tradition of Christmas gifts that are usually put in a sock or boot. And the bishop stopped the storm, and raised a sailor who fell from a viewing tower.
Half an hour later we're at the old dilapidated church where he once served as Nicholas service.
— This church — Byzantine origin, after the Orthodox church converted into a — says our Turkish Virgil. — On the walls are still preserved frescoes and inscriptions on stones in Old Slavonic, but with errors. After the death of Nicholas Church was named after him. Worshippers praying to his ashes, began to notice that after these visits, the disease began to disappear. After these wonders of the World has become a place of pilgrimage for believers from around the world.
We look around — there are no pilgrims, tourists only.
— Today, miracles do not happen, but if your sickness will disappear after this trip, so it still helps.
I accept frantically to remember what was sick for the last time and if I had something "running." "Interestingly, and stretch marks and cellulite too helps the saint?" — Whispers in my ear odnogruppnitsa.
— And this is — corridor sinners — Musfi enlightens us, — we know that through this corridor Bishop led parishioners to cleanse them from their sins. Go to three times counterclockwise.
Do not have time to finish our guide, half the group rushed into the corridor, "purify sins."
Near the temple sell briskly, "shrines" two Turks. Wooden icons are 15-20 euros, the other — drawn by felt-tip pen … plain paper — a 5. Here, on a makeshift counter, laid red bags with handfuls of the Holy Land, which "works wonders." There is such a handful in the bag 10 euros.
Figures Nicholas Russian ladies are snapping at such a rate that surprised the Turks themselves. All because of our guide's explanation: "This holy helps unmarried girls to get married. Only need to figure standing in a prominent place in the house. " Someone desperate shouts, "You guys, I forgot wallet in the hotel, borrow 15 euros!" That's how much is a stone "pimp."
Well, the "holy" business — a profitable.

Where to find Atlantis?
After the tour, home of Santa Claus, our group landed on the quay. On the pier is a small yacht. On it we go to the sunken ancient Lycian city of Kekova era.
— After the earthquake in the V century BC the city is almost entirely disappeared under the water — explain to us by our escort. — But the city walls, stairs, roofs of houses can be easily seen at a shallow depth. Incidentally, the depth at the point where the city went under water, such that water appears bluish-black. "Truant" in the underwater city of love divers and archaeologists. There was shooting their films Cousteau.
All forty people huddled on the edge of the boat, hoping to see the Turkish Atlantis.
— Look! Wall! — Happily, as if he saw aliens, someone shouted.
Indeed, the water is clearly visible corner stone wall. Just do not understand what it was — a house or a building? From the shore into the water leaving a stone staircase, which once townspeople went to the central square. Part of the destroyed houses on the hills, untouched by water, part of the ever plunged into the abyss. Now, instead of the city's residents surviving on the bank of homes and on the streets strolling black goat — the main inhabitants of the Turkish coast.
We approach the local village. The outdoor terrace family Turks treats tourists coffee. His porch they converted into a cafe and family relics were placed in an entourage. Suddenly coming out to meet us, shaggy man in a red T-shirt with the inscription "USSR". We joyfully shout: Hello! A man passes by in silence. It turned out we are greeted with a Canadian who has several years of living in this village.
— He is your restaurant. However, the family has not yet acquired.
— And how did he get here? — I'm interested.
— I came as a tourist and was unable to leave — explain the coffee shop owners.
We nod understandingly.

Moskovsky Komsomolets on 15.05.2004
Marina Velikanovs.

15.05.2004

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