One Gem of a JEWELRY CASE.

We know we’ve got a popular project on our hands when everyone we show it to “oohs!” and “ahs!” at first sight. That’s what we have experienced with this rose-accented jewelry case. Several women who have seen it sitting around our office area told us that they’d love to have one just like it. Imagine the response you’ll get when you present this project to its lucky recipient.

Note: You’ll need some thin stock for this project. Cut or plank thicker stock to size.

Let’s Begin With the Carcase

1

From a 1/2-thick piece of cherry, cut the carcase sides (A), the top and bottom (B), and the stretcher (C) to the dimensions listed in the Bill of Materials. Now, rip and crosscut another piece of 1/2 cherry to 1 3/4 wide by 24″ long. Chuck .a classical bit into a table-mounted router as shown in the Routing The Carcase Trim Pieces drawing at right. (We used a Bosch 85579M classical bit.) Then, start your router, and pass the workpiece through the bit to create the decorative edge. From this piece, cut the front trim piece (D) and the side trim pieces (E) to size plus in length.

2

Lay out the carcase sides (A) side by side on your workbench, making sure that their top and bottom edges align. Referring to the Carcase drawing above right, mark the location of the dado and the rabbet on both carcase sides. Also, mark the location of the hinges where shown.

3

Fit your tablesaw with a 1/2 dado set, and raise it to cut W deep. Carefully cut the 1/2 dado and rabbet in each carcase side. Now, set your tablesaw rip fence with wooden auxiliary fence to cut a 1/8 rabbet 1/4 deep along the back edge of each side as well as the top and bottom. (Doing this will create the recess needed for the 1/8 back.) Make the cuts. Set the blade to cut 1/16 deep, and using your miter gauge with an auxiliary fence, cut the hinge mortises.

4

Glue and clamp the carcase top, bottom, and sides together, checking to make sure that everything is square. Then, glue and clamp the stretcher (C) to the carcase, with the bottom edge of it flush with the bottom of the sides.

5

After the glue dries, remove the clamps from the carcase, and sand it smooth. Now, miter-cut one end of each side trim piece (E) and both ends of the front trim piece (D) to the dimensions listed in the Bill of Materials. Glue and clamp the trim pieces to the carcase. Let the glue dry, then finish-sand the carcase.

6

Measure the dimensions of the back opening and using 1/8 hard board, cut the back (F) to size. Set it aside for now.

7

From 3/4 cherry, cut two pieces to 3×7 3/4 to serve as ballast (G) for the jewelry case.

Now, Build the Ring Holder and the Necklace Hanger.

1

For the front and back (H) and the ends . and divider (I) of the holder, rip and crosscut one piece of 1/2 cherry to 1×18 long and another one to 1×12. Cut a 1/8 piece from the 12 length and a 1/4 piece from the 18 length. Sand the pieces smooth, then cut the H and I pieces to the lengths listed in the Bill of Materials.

2

Referring to the Ring Holder drawing below, lay out the location of the dado and rabbets in the front and back (H). Then, set a 1/8 tablesaw blade to cut 1/8 deep, and make the dado and rabbet cuts.

3

Sand the ring-holder parts, then glue and clamp them. Glue the holder to the carcase, making sure that the back edge of it aligns with the inside edge of the rabbet in each carcase side and the bottom.

4

To make the necklace hanger (J), you’ll need a piece of 1/2-thick cherry that is 3/4×6 1/4 long. Make a copy of the full-sized pattern on the pattern insert, and adhere the pattern to the workpiece with spray adhesive. Cut the piece to shape, and sand the cut edges smooth. Drill a 1/8 hole in one end of the hanger, and with a finish nail, mark the location of the cup hooks. Remove the pattern, and sand all of the surfaces of the hanger.

Making the Door Comes Next

1

Using 1/2 cherry, cut the top rail (K), stiles (L), and the bottom rail (M) to the dimensions listed in the Bill of Materials. Then, on your workbench, arrange the frame members as shown on the Door Frame drawing above right. Mark the location of the dowel joints, again using the Door Frame drawing.

2

With a doweling jig, drill 1/4 dowel holes 9/16 deep at each of your marks. Then, glue and clamp the frame, making sure that it is square.

Clean up any glue squeeze-out, then allow the glue to dry. After the glue sets, remove the clamps and sand the frame smooth.

3

Copy the full-sized pattern of parts K and L (see the pattern insert). Adhere the pattern to the frame, making sure that the top of the pattern aligns with the top of part K. (We used spray adhesive.) Cut just to the outside of the pattern line with a bandsaw or scrollsaw, and sand to the line with a drum sander. Remove the pattern from the frame, and sand the frame smooth.

4

Chuck a 3/16 round-over bit into a table-mounted router as shown in the drawing at right, and feed the door frame, front face down, into the bit for the decorative bead.

5

To make the side stops (N) and the top and bottom stops (0), Cut a 3/4×1 1/2×20 piece of cherry to 3/16-wide. Now, lower the router bit used in the previous step 1/16 so that it will cut a true round-over. Then, rout round-overs on both edges of this piece. Rip a 3/16-wide strip from each edge you just rounded-over for the stop material.

6

Miter both ends of the four stops to the lengths specified in the Bill of Materials. Then, glue and clamp them to the front inside edge of the door frame, recessing the pieces 1/16 from the front edge. Remove any glue squeeze-out, and allow the glue to set up. Later, sand the door smooth.

7

Lay the door frame face down on your workbench. Then, measure the opening, and cut a piece of 1/8 hard board to that size for the door back (P). Set the back aside.

8

To make the rose-within-an-oval wooden applique, see the four steps and accompanying illustrations at left. Also, see the full-sized rose applique pattern on the pattern insert found at the center of the magazine.

And Now For the Earring Rack.

1

For the stiles (Q), rip a 3/8 strip from a 3/4×24 piece of cherry. Then, set your tablesaw blade to cut 1/8 deep. Set the rip fence to make a 1/8 groove 1/8 in from one edge of the strip. Make your cut. Then, cut the strip into two equal-sized pieces.

2

Make two copies of the full-sized Earring Rack Stile pattern in the pattern insert. Now, adhere the patterns to the stiles, and cut the pieces to shape. Drill a 3/32 shank hole in each end of both stiles where shown on the pattern. Remove the pattern from each stile, and sand smooth.

3

For the earring rack rails (R), rip and crosscut a piece of 3/4 cherry to 1 1/4×36. Then, сut a 1/8 strip from this piece. Crosscut four 5 7/8-long strips from this piece. From the leftover stock, rip and crosscut six 1/8×1/8×1 3/8 pieces for spacers (S).

4

Using double-faced tape, stack the four rails (R), making sure that all edges are flush. Make a copy of the Earring Rack Rail pattern in the pattern insert, and adhere it to the top rail. With a bandsaw, make the cuts in the side of the rails. Separate the rails, remove the pattern, and sand all parts of the rack smooth.

5

Glue and clamp the stiles, rails, and spacers where shown in the Earring Rack drawing at right. Check for square, then clean up any glue squeeze out, and let the glue dry. Later, remove the clamps and finish-sand.

Let’s Do the Final Assembly and Finishing.

1

Screw the hinges to the carcase, and then clamp the door in position, allowing a 1/16 gap between the bottom of the door and the carcase. Mark the location of the hinges on the door, then remove the clamps. Cut a pair of 1/16-deep mortises into the door. Screw the hinges to the door, then close the door to check for fit. Remove the hardware, and lay the door, face down, on your workbench.

2

Lay a repurchased 1/8×6 5/16×9 3/16 minor into the door frame. Then, cover the door back (P) that you cut to size earlier with felt fabric (we used a dark blue color). Lay the fabric-covered hard board into the back side of the door frame to check for a good fit. Remove the mirror and the hard board, and set them aside.

3

Cover the carcase back (F) with felt fabric, and test-fit it. Then, remove the back, and set it aside.

4

Turn the carcase upside down, and referring to the Top Section drawing on the pattern insert, mark the center point of the 3/4 cup hooks that will screw into the carcase top. Also mark the center point of the hole that will accept the #8 brass screw that will hold the swing-out hanger in place.

5

Apply the finish of your choice to the jewelry case. We used three coats of Watch Danish Oil Finish.

See Tip at right. Then, center the earring rack over the opening, and secure it to the door with #2×1/2 screws. Now, add the hinges.

6

Screw five cup hooks into the top of the carcase, and the other five into the swing-out hanger. Now, screw the swing-out hanger into place, with a brass washer above and below the hanger. And finally, glue and clamp the back into position, and mount the pull and catch hardware where shown on the Door Frame and Carcase drawings.

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