I decided to visit South Ossetia. Have long wished, and the case dropped at the moment — so that the drive completely into the void, I'm not up to such an extent journalist. And here is a coincidence that one here on a business trip and questions where and how to get, have fallen by themselves for themselves. In general, I decided — and drove off.
In Vladikavkaz airport to the taxi driver came up to me at once, as if we had parted only yesterday said, "We're going? '. Of course we go, why there might be issues. It turned out that the taxi driver's name Jora, he is 36 years old and that he spent his adult life Taxi — says that, in fact, do more in his native Beslan nothing special. Revealed that there are a couple of distilleries, and for some curving company. One of those most beverage plants, by the way, got us on the way and looked the part of a very modern.
The fact that the airport is located Vladikavkaz in the thing dramatically eminent Beslan, for me, the man who first came to the Caucasus, was a small opening.
Almost a couple of kilometers from the airport is a memorial to the victims of Beslan. Referred to as — "City of Angels", in memory of the fact that the victim of the terrorists were small kids. Jora knows that at the memorial "City of Angels" is a grave 6 babies and mothers — the whole family was killed, still alive, only the father.
Travel a distance of nearly 30 km, on the outskirts of Vladikavkaz, costs 500 rubles. And then, as explained to me later, I'm still overpaid. The trip from Vladikavkaz to Tskhinvali, and that 150 km along the mountain serpentine road through the two border posts — will cost fifteen hundred. In Tskhinvali itself I do not eat a taxi — driven by Ossetians with Russian naming Igor manages to not only overtake overloaded Kamaz trucks on the turns, from which the inhabitants of the plains is breathtaking, and still talk about Ossetia and Ossetians.
It turns out that the Ossetians, as we do, the most revered saints — is the Holy Jora George. On the road from Vladikavkaz to Tskhinvali striking monument, which is made in such a way that he seems carved into the mountain. Architect managed to fit so ZHoru Victorious in the landscape that at first you do not notice the rider who comes out of the mountains.
Next, completely dark, and the road to Tskhinvali turned into a solid smoke break and discussions about life. The most exciting start after otosplyus after the forced march. Because to be continued.
Immediately make a reservation: a reporter from me inferior, so as to photograph can not. So do not expect a large arts. Himself said that I wish to deal in such matters:
— As rebuilt postwar South Ossetia?
— It may be a union of a broken nation?
— Why Ossetia in the cult of Joseph Stalin?
— Why Ossetians empire?
These are the topics that interests me. If you are interested in something in particular — write — will be explored.
About the Georgian-Ossetian war and "peace enforcement" Much has been written. Because I basically motivate the consequences and how war remained in the memory of the Ossetian people. And, certainly, it looks like the post-war Tskhinvali.
On the tour I had luck. Bakhva Tadeev, the captain of "Alania" in 1995, when the Ossetians became champions of the Russian football, and now Deputy Minister of Education, Youth and Sports, taking me to places of war. Tskhinvali is in a terrible state. Such an impression that the war was held yesterday.
In the town there is virtually no asphalt. It turns out that even after the war city looked much better — the city authorities ransacked everything, allegedly for the substitution of communications, but to finish the work, it seems, no one is going. It's hard to say what it is, but the situation in the Republic with the monetary discipline, to put it mildly, the tragic. From the budget of the Russian Federation allocated 6.8 billion rubles for the restoration of the republic. On this day, financed 1.2 billion, but the government can not, for their report. To remedy the situation, sent to the Prime Minister of Chelyabinsk Brovtsev. But even that did not help. Committee of the restoration of the republic government actually controlled, and all the funding comes through. The result — the next tranche of frozen, Tskhinvali looks like a bombed just yesterday — after a rain on the other as in rubber boots will not pass, and the heads of new foreign cars goes. The situation is painfully recalls the story with the authorities of Transnist
ria almost offspring of days the president of Pridnestrovie Oleg Smirnov was summoned to the Investigative Committee of the Russian Federation in connection with the theft of 180 million rubles Russian humanitarian aid. Against the backdrop of poverty conventional Ossetians such a situation is doubly sad.
The Georgian army entered Tskhinvali in the streets of Fallen Heroes. This is one of the main streets, which ends railway station area. The only normally restored house — a house on Railroad Square, which has become the main line of defense.
Then within 3 days of the tanks held back the remains of peacekeepers and Ossetian militia. Commanded the defense of this milestone today Minister of Emergency Situations of the Republic, a graduate of the Ryazan Airborne School Anatoly Bibilov and Russian colonel Barankiewicz, which his hands knocked Georgian tank.
Tower 1st of Georgian tanks, like, forever remained in Tskhinvali. The explosion was such force that the turret left a candle in the sky and knocking the canopy entrance, was stuck in the barrel of a concrete porch of the house. Tidy up the tower did not, and the purity is not particularly look — piles of garbage and empty bottles lying directly in the tower.
If the town were specifically military action, then on the outskirts of Tskhinvali proshodyat horrific actions are not enough compatible with the idea of war. As the city entered the Georgian military forces, peaceful inhabitants began to massively flee from the town. The vehicles were loaded families and just went where no tanks. So towards the village Khetagurovo nearly 3 kilometers from Tskhinvali, the column of refugees in the passenger car ran into Georgian tanks. Do not want to outline in detail what was going on — I'm not a fan of naturalism. The essence is that the machine refugees simply crushed by tanks. At the moment, this place is a memorial from the remains of cars and the middle tree is installed memory.
Right there, next to Khetagurovo is a common grave Ossetian OMON, who first met the tanks. In the main it is children born in 1985-1988.
Apart from traces of battles on the outskirts of Tskhinvali possible to see the ruins of the Georgian villages. The fact is that in the period from 1992 to 2008 on the main road leading from Tskhinvali towards North Ossetia, there were several Georgian villages. The track has always been a conflict zone — that blocked the road, then began the conflicts between residents. When the war began in 2008, the Georgian village became a kind of fifth column. It turned out that the Georgian troops entered Tskhinvali from the south and the north exit of the town began Georgian villages. In short, after 2008 no Georgian villages around Tskhinvali not. Homes destroyed, somewhere they just razed to the foundation. It would seem logical to take the Georgian villages by placing the refugees. But I was told that only the ruins will not desire to go back — if you throw home, then this could be delayed by a bomb coming conflict. It turns out that these villages can not demolish and build in their place, too, something new comes out. Who are these dead villages along the route, recalling the war. Which ended 3 years back, but in spite of Tskhinvali think it was just yesterday.