November 1, 2012 22:15
Long hesitated to start this report on the Mustang (from Tibetan Mun Tan — fertile plain) administrative region of Nepal in the upper reaches of the river Kali Gandaki, Constantine writes Stogniy.
Currently, the Crown remained in the top Muctange called kingdom Lo. In fact, share experiences'd like there's no wheels, and people legally divided into castes. At the same time, these places are so "nezatselovannye" so protected that my report, getting it on the eyes heartless people inflame those who absolutely must "rospryagaty horses" and shouting "Tagil!" In Turkish hotels.
Not suppressing his fear that our pictures and the story will serve as an unwanted team to act the part of "the rich Pinocchio" to realize their travel ambitions through simplicity of the people lo-pa. "There's poor people live, savage, terrible face, good inside." Make them miserable shameless visitors infecting Nepalese mountaineers spirit of gain and awareness of inferiority in comparison with the white man, packed with brand of "Prada" and "Louis Vuitton".
The helicopter took us to the last base of climbers on the mountain Annapurna. From there on foot and in the sad little ponies, accompanied by Sherpa Tsamby, we continued our way along the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. The gorge of the river is the deepest canyon in the world, which is also called the Great Himalayan gap. Horses fearlessly go on a flat edge of the cliff, on the go tearing the grass. Let them eat, then do not eat. We reach a steep slope and dismounting. Horses are afraid of the slope, and it is necessary to urge.
World Cinema is not made one attempt to visualize a paradise, one of the most memorable — movie "What Dreams May Come" with Robin Williams in the title role. Traveling around the world, said that many places in the world cause a real delight and desire to stay a little longer, however, really do not understand people who imagine that heaven is the kingdom of Mustang.
I like the mountains, or rather ski slopes, but the journey to the kingdom of Mustang was my first real access to the big mountains. Up until now, had to go to the Alps, the Andes, in the Pyrenees, in the Cordillera, in the Tatra Mountains, the Caucasus, the Urals, and, of course, in the Carpathians. They are all good in their own way, but it is Himalayan find most vivid, emotionally charged mountain range in my collection of impressions.
Nicholas Roerich, considered the top Mustang one of the few places on the planet, through which the earth receives the divine energy of the cosmos. Local Brahmins clarify that Shambhala is a sacred mountain in the Nilgiri, but in another spatial dimension. The outlines of the mountain attracted the eye all the way. And you can only see the Shambhala in a modified state of consciousness, and it is not for everyone.
After crossing the desert land, dotted with small bushes, we reached Tangbe deaf village, almost untouched by civilization.
Going down to the river shore of gravel, we proceeded to Chuksanga. The village is situated at an altitude of 3,100 meters, it is surrounded by cliffs and houses are built right on the steep cliffs. Near the Chuksanga in the valley, Sherpa showed us dozens of ancient monuments unknown to science, burial structures Mustang. This gravestones hills, scattered with large stones and "deer stones" (mysterious piles of stones covered with antlers). At present, the Mustang in the land of the dead bury only the lowest caste — blacksmiths, butchers, tanners and musicians.
From ancient stone tombs from the local population of legends long past here tribes. For example, a tribe with high culture and great knowledge — Agartha. It is said that the tribe was in mortal danger, and they were forced to leave by their secret underground tunnels in an unknown direction. There is a version that the local ancient mounds with stone rubble and there immured entrance to the mysterious underground Agartha.
And, of course, one of the legends of the Mustang — the birthplace of the Buddha, from here he went to India. In aeropotru Tribuvan (Kathmandu) meets foreign guests sign Welcome to the mother land of Buddha. In his homeland, I had to deal with the idea that Jesus comes from Galilee, and from Galicia. People you cares where he was born a prophet and a teacher? Was he taught to worship him personally?
What is Buddhism and what is the teaching of the Buddha? Buddhism — a set of myths about how the Buddha first lived in the palace, and then meditating under the Bodhi tree. And the teachings of the Buddha — a lotus in his hand.
One day the Buddha came nastavnichat in a small provincial center. Listen dear brahmana gathered officials, aristocrats, all the local intelligentsia and other distinguished people.
Buddha was already quite old, and by that time he had already obbil language, telling the essence of his teachings. Buddha paused, paused, raised his hand and showed everyone a lotus flower. Honourable audience respectfully silent. No one knew how to react. Only one of the men named Mahakashyapa widely heartily smiled, as if he had a stone with a soul slept. Buddha then stood up and said, "All I wanted to tell you, I have already said. Understood only Mahakashyapa. I leave it to you instead of himself. " This was the last sermon of the Buddha in his life.
What the Buddha taught not verbally Mahakashyapa, said words four centuries later, Jesus Christ:
"Look at the lilies of the field, how they grow: they toil not, neither do they spin;
But I say unto you, That even Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these;
if the grass of the field, which today is, and tomorrow is cast into the oven, God clothes, how much more will you of little faith?
So, do not be anxious, saying, What shall we eat? or What shall we drink? or 'What shall we wear?
For all these things the Gentiles seek, and because your heavenly Father knows that you need all these things.
But seek first His kingdom and His righteousness, and all these things to you.
So do not worry about tomorrow, for tomorrow will worry about its Sufficient for each day is the evil thereof. "
It is hard to understand. Even more difficult to live on such a commandment. But this is the doctrine, and the rest — just myths about how Christ lived, as he died and rose again as. Christianity — all the stories about him, but not the teaching of Him.
It is as if the hotel had sent an employee to clean up the room, and a temporary guest hotel, rather than at least not interfere with the cleaner, and began to be photographed with him, bring him treats, make listening to hymns in his honor, but in order not to go into why he came …
We crossed the bridge and went up a steep slope, a small settlement reached slit (3300 m), which is in the red rocks. Wife's relatives live here Tsamby our guide, so the first stop was held here. Could not refrain from a grave sin of gluttony and gladly succumbed to temptation. Exotic soup tsampa (barley flour, covered with tea and yak milk seasoned) is simple, but having a live Tibetan flavor dish allowed to fully satisfy your appetite. While we ate, we were told that the village live Highlanders caste "Gurung." The people of Mustang, there are three castes. People belonging to the caste of "Gurung" — is mostly peasants. They work for themselves, for the king and the aristocracy. When a member dies caste Gurung, the kind of men carrying him to the mountains, and there, in a special place, chop the corpse into pieces, which are then fed to the mountain eagles. Therefore, there is no slit in the cemetery.
For Hindus, Tibetan Buddhists, followers of the Bon religion — it is important that after death the body of the deceased as soon as possible disintegrated into dust invisible to the eye. Only then, according to the beliefs of these people, the soul leaves the body and is reborn again.
Steep trail led us to a panoramic plateau. From here the path runs through through a narrow gorge, with irrigation canals. Weather obviously favors us, the sun is shining, the birds are chirping, and no mosquitoes. Grace! Closing and try to go shoot something crippled camera (thank Dinesh Shrestha and Mark Whittaker for help in illustrating the report).
Impressions are replaced as quickly as the surrounding landscape. Finally, we reached the village of Samar (3620m), which is located in the shadow of huge poplar with many flags. It is believed residents Mustang men after death for a time become the spirits of the place where they die. Flags with mantras on the stones and the trees are bound to show respect to the spirits and Buddha. The trees from which hang flags mnyatsya sacred. It is believed that they are living and the spirits. We, too, standing face to the sun, hung his mantra.
Long section with a series of climbs and descents led our group to the small settlement Eklobatti. The descent is always more restless than the rise. Horses can feel it: they get nervous, try to beat each other, and they have to hold back. Flattening of the slope at the horses are calm, and our eyes are attracted again unseen rocks and caves.
After Eklobatti streets again followed the steep rise in the large panoramic hill (3900m). We pass by a pair of birds, similar to cranes. Their grace prompts me to toss the nose camera. But my sudden movements flush birds. More on the pass Syangbonche shoot absolutely nothing, and we went to go to the village of Ghislenghien (3570 m).
We decided to stop for the night in the village, although it spent in the saddle today only four hours: but had not traveled on horseback, and our "fifth point" need rest.
The next day the weather was good, and talk about life / morals of the people lo-pa, we have a fascinating passage through the highest mountains on all our ways, and reached the second largest city in the former Kingdom of Lo and its capital — Tsarang (3550m).
In Tsarange a Buddhist temple, which for some flight of fancy can even be called majestic. Of course, compared to the miserable shacks previously seen villages. When the local monks pray, they ask for all countries, not only for his kingdom. Strange, is not it? Hermit is a matter not only to themselves and those around, they baked the whole world.
It is possible in this monastery manuscripts are stored with the exact date of the next incarnation of the Buddha Maitreya. He comes to earth once every two and a half thousand years. That is about to be soon, the other day. One would like to ask, guys, why do you new Buddha? You and the fact that he lived and preached before, not really listening. The Buddha said to you: "The finger, pointing at the moon is not the moon." But you prefer to build a two-storey stupa and meaningless statues, rather than try to heed the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama.
After a visit to the magnificent Buddhist temple started to rise on Yangda La (4010m). And from there, a long descent brought us to the village of Jamie, who is known for its healing waters. At this altitude, the enduring feel short of breath. A move should be sliding smoothly, otherwise inevitable dehydration and "altitude sickness." So the healing waters have been very helpful. It is known that after forty years, the male body is much easier to tolerate high altitudes, the main thing — do not drink alcohol or coffee. Among other cultural traditions in the Kingdom of Lo saves preserved medicine for centuries — amchi.
We went down to the mountain river with an indescribable name and continued to move along the longest Mani wall in Nepal, which leads to three abandoned temples of forgotten gods. Buddhism came to Mustang only in XIV century AD, and the Buddha was born in the IV century BC. It is as if Christianity came to Russia in eighteen centuries after Christ. Ie Bohdan Khmelnytsky was a still a pagan, but Ivan Mazepa — one of the first Ukrainian Christians.
That is why it is no surprise that Buddhism in Mustang strongly intertwined with the Bon religion and primitive shamanism. Had to meet even tridents god Shiva.
The next day we got up early and quickly spread out belongings on saddle bags, moved through an area surrounded by fantastic panoramic Tsaranga and arrays of Nilgiri, Tilicho and Annapurna. Climbing up to the ridge (3850 m), we finally saw the long-awaited city, Luo Mantang ancient city of Tibet at an altitude of 3730 m, the legendary capital of Mustang.
In Tsarange we managed to get a goat. While her butchered, learned that earlier in the Luo Mantange was a nice restaurant, where love trapeznichat Europeans. The restaurant opened one not local nevarets, who married a resident of the kingdom and thus acquired a permit for commercial activity in the Law. Alien's not allowed to do business, but a pilgrimage.
Nevarets became rich because he knew what to do to attract Europeans with money. The remaining owners of taverns were very annoyed. They have ensured that the King Lo, "for the sake of justice," allowed to open only one day catering point, and feed the pilgrims at a time. Nevarets in such circumstances the restaurant closed, and the one that was open at the moment, Sherpa dissuaded us to meddle.
Tsamba said the following: "Do you eat forks, spoons, and you never know who ate them up to you. And we eat with their fingers, we all know what happened to them. " By this time, we have learned to understand parables Tsamby. In standby restaurant was a risk of poisoning.
Tied up goat carcass into the seat, get to the right place where to pitch a tent. Tsamba slaughtered a goat, together with skin and hair sternum size 40 by 40 cm, planted it on two wooden sticks and roasted over charcoal. At the end of the cooking process, scorched skin is cleaned and the meat is served on a test. In general, if you can tolerate, it is best to be patient and not to eat.
Hobbled the horses in the fog managed to go somewhere. We went in search of them and met a shepherdess. She showed where I saw our horses. Looked out of the mist Mount Annapurna. Cowgirl said that the mountains that stand out for their height or shape, before the flood were heroes. In the stone turned their parents' spell. After the flood the earth has lost its original hardness and could not keep himself on all heroes. So the heroes are off. In the mountains, there are spirits of heroes. The main spirits, dominion over all Mustang, considered the spirits of the four mountains with one name Annapurna. In the belief that they live in caves and on glaciers. Everyone tends to placate the spirits moving through the pass, the traveler leaves on it the stone. Years passed through pass drove hundreds of people, and raised the stone heap. Sometimes they stick sticks, which are tied flags with mantras.
Watch-towers at all lo Mantanga fluttering in the wind prayer flags. In comparison to other villages we pinned Lo Mantang white palace and red temple is a significant city. However, within its walls lives no more than one hundred and eighty families. In fifteen minutes, you can get around the city walls in a circle. At dawn, they bypass Palbar old Raja Jigme Bista. Dynasty Gyalpo (king) of the Mustang is the beginning of the XIV century, the legendary warlord Ame Pal.
When someone dies of Bista, his body burned at the stake of wood. It is the privilege of the aristocracy in the places where commoners warm their homes dried yak dung. A woman lo-pa has the right to live with their husbands at the same time the four, the first and only to those engaged in that collects fallen trees and yachi poop.
At one time Raja Jigme Bista Parbal son died tragically, and the continuation of the dynasty Bista is threatened. We were hoping for an audience with King Lot. Before he took travelers from distant lands to inquire about this and that. But these days, when the 74-year old Jigme finally understood that it is interrupted Bista dynasty, lasting from the XIV century, he rarely agrees to a meeting with the guests. The realization that led a long line of his ancestors and virility not return any shifts amchi medicine, giving the old Rajah, the last king of Lo. Most likely, after his death, the kingdom of Lo will disappear from the map of Nepal. It is possible that we — the last Ukrainians, who had seen with his own eyes in the XXI century, this medieval Tibetan kingdom.