In the most remote from the main cargo customs checkpoint on the Russian-Belarusian border, in the village of Lyady on Dubrovenshchyne, wanted to get a long time.
Our Lyady and Russian fungus — a few hundred meters from each other, share their bridge over the river Mireille. In Soviet times, Russian and Belarusian had houses and land on both sides of the border then the conditional. So the number one goal I have set myself to compare life once related to literally villages — an image that is there now, and there began to differ. Teased a trip to the top of gas-war between the two countries, with possible consequences in the form of strengthening the border and the introduction of the transport "of the visa regime." From the first minute it became clear that the local fear this more than anyone. Overweight, chunky Volodya foreman working in agro, emerged three years ago. He says that "we passed it":
Volodya: "The route Moscow — Minsk was overloaded cars allowed here. And" friends "ran — stabbing was …"
However, near the border with crime traditionally dangerous — in the village of 700-odd residents fifty former "prisoners". Here, everyone knows "purely local" anecdote — "traces lead to Lyady with cold NO traces." Says it all the same Vladimir:
Volodya: "The horse is stolen, zavedut the mountain brick to the tail, not to neigh. Traces of lead and the horse in the barn is not …" (Laughs.)
Reporter: "Why stolen a lot?"
Volodya: "The Jews have lived, it was a place, 4 oil mills, the road …"
Interviewee himself, like many, keeps bees — he has 17 vullev.
Volodya: "In that year, three cans of 40 liters of honey — I'm taking to Vitebsk to sell …"
Relatively recently for lyadavtsav was strong addition to the budget — own milk carried on sale in Russia. But the propaganda in the local media took his — say, the Belarusian milk "from Chernobyl, and with antibiotics." The said Volodya asked the saleswoman at the store:
Volodya: "M., three years is not buying?"
M."It is unprofitable to buy them now, and we have the purchase price of seven hundred and thirtieth I'm still of a cow …"
Volodya: "So as to live for? To have a car, good, help children, my three cows per month 200 million for milk …"
Victor: "It is bad enough that grazing. 120 cows at the center, at the Sloboda under 60, at the border of the 40-odd …"
22-year-old Victor roznarabochy its economy has not and does not want to — they say, "laziness." He says that satisfying job — to sit for hours in anticipation of a discharge or unloading of a rare car.
Victor: "Lay 300, e and more. Youth, oh, a little — who in Russia, who served in the city. And I do not want …"
Reporter: "And give your much?"
Volodya: "Who million, and who for a penny until the evening build. Agro None for us — how many have so much and we have …"
Finally I went to a small, painted white van for today's national flag — this is our transport capacity point. Russia after the bridge on the hill looks decidedly more durable. The Belarusian Head, Mr Grachev, said:
Grachev: "There was a picture of the bridge, if our side three logs was laid, and on their part — birch. Now have a custom, but there's nothing …"
Reporter: "Do not go into the Customs Union — will strengthen the border?"
Grachev"They are already fortified, we are ashamed to speak. They impose temporary import …"
However, neither the Belarusians, Russians nor the documents are not checked — pass and free passage across the border. Back in the bus met the 42-year-old Russian Nikolay Combs, who came to check on his sister in the next Kalinavtsy. His story and local, that were traveling with us, was a shock — say, "Yes, that know little about each other." He spoke with someone on his tongue.
Nikolay: "We have a Limited Liability Company" Ray "- pasture for themselves. Director there, Moscow — keep our former farm. I worked as a tractor, I am building a house in Smolensk …"
Reporter: "How much earned as a tractor driver?"
Nikolay: "Oh! Two years ago, received 500 rubles a day. Now go to private owners — by appointment, 3-4 thousand in the same day. And in that" farm "tractor, two shepherds. My wife milkmaid — 800 rubles a day, in month comes out to about 20,000 Russian. Her 35 cows — my sister, you have 50 milks, and do not give that kind of money … "
Reporter: "And how many have left the village?"
Nikolay: "In five years, no one would be — four workers, old people died, young people in the city …"
Reporter: "Back in Soviet times, it was said that it is better Belarusians lived, and now the opposite?"
Nikolay: "But, look, you have sown, and we have all the overgrown bushes, equipment stolen, cut. Director falls when it was sold. Metal KAMAZ, Ural-trailers were taken — drier crusher. Belarusian at home I turn on the program — Ljubo look. This show-off, but a good show. Our gas cylinder 600 rubles, Belarus is our gas — 250 Russian. in Kyrgyzstan war is going — where our free gas. milkmaid But our need to pay as much as your lower, right? I have two cows — Courtyard by driving up, I hand. Sheep is, chickens, and ducks. she three in the morning on the farm, three in the evening — the day beds prapole, boy 15 years to plant potatoes. Sahara bought for cooking — all the way through our … "
In Lyady I arrived with two companions, members of the Party "Fair World" — Mykola Kornienko gentlemen, that in the 70 years of the last century, served as secretary of the Party Committee of the Communist Party of the local farm "Zadneprovskij" and Nicholas Petrushenka, which represents the public initiative "Our House". In search of material agreed to disperse in different directions. First I caught Nikolai Semenovich, who has led the discussion with the Russian police. He came to help her mother with the housework — Tikhonovna that lives in Lyady.
Policeman: "It will put us customs area — we are brothers-Slavs formed as hereditary Aryans from the same roots …"
Petrushenka: "Listen, brother, brother, now presses so that the dust is flying! Example, there is at Lukashenko major and minor sons — Victor and Nick. Victor wants to be president, and Kohl's competitor already …"
Policeman: "As a Russian citizen father Lukashenko approve two services — the purity and the fact that he did not lie under amerykosav …"
Tikhonovna: "No, who went to the manger at that finger in the pie — put there Lukashenko, set of peasants — is not to steal?"
As you may have heard before World Lyady were Jewish town. Jews lived here up to 2 thousand. During the war, all shot in the woods on the current Russian territory. There is a monument to that, however, thos
e local authorities do not recognize "his" — does not order, do not lay flowers in memory. I met with the principal lyadavskimi long-liver — 95-year-old Mrs. Zinaida Vesnyakovay and her friend, 78-year-old Nina Chulanova. They all saw with my own eyes and remember like yesterday …
Chulanova: "Either the Jews are not the same as us — well, for what in their war? Were shot, were washed over them …"
Vesnyakova: "It was our 300 Jewish homes. Lived beautiful — I do not have bread, he'll reward, and he worked out. And the Germans herded them, there were not given. Honey, lots of persecuted. Who was driving, not the Germans — their own! Khokhly were policemen. Mud forced them to collect — like zarugatstsa over them. And then undressed and put them fired. Children broke, throwing on his knee. Honey, it was a horror! And the Germans were good people — and their shot, and our shot. And our policemen Meaner were — in the wrong place after blood "shot" across the land. Svetapradstavlenne, my child, it was! "
Reporter: "And when collective much hurt?"
Chulanova: "Small ran for work" sticks. "She went to milk the cows in '54 on May 18. A retired in '92. Though who would have given us a lot of money — 28 rubles pension was, and how Lukashenka started to add — 500,000 … "
Vesnyakova: "I went into retirement at 72 rubles, and now the five-hundredth Then, for more than 70 of which were to buy than right now for 700,000. Bread for the ruble will take 10-12 loaves. And now for the 2000 Give a bun …"
Reporter: "Cows are becoming less?
Chulanova: "Who has the power, and 5, and 4 hold. Lyadovtsy Work milkmaids, cattleman. Ljadov With 10 people went to Russia to work at the sawmill. And earn more — then the director did not work out. 2 years as Director of the works. Comes to us — the daughter of an economist — Sasha, a young. What went — they passed the calf, so the farm, and that in his pocket. And with that Sasha did not work — look at everything. When you're right to live and to indicate necessarily going bad … "
Meanwhile, Mr Kornienko learned where his longtime friend and collaborator — Mrs. Pauline Hvedaravna Shekina. In Lyady if all do not pray for her son — the colonel-general of the FSB of Russia, who with his own money 3 years ago built a village Orthodox church of the Holy Spirit — in the manner of Moscow, with domes and venzelyami. Volodya I mentioned in the beginning of dating said:
Volodya"Shekin same lyadnyanski general, the father's name was Avtukh. He lives in Moscow, except the church house was built, the asphalt before it paved. For this we need three things — money, money and money. General said, would build and kaptsilny shop — the authorities do not allow … "
Nicholas Leonovich worried crossing the threshold — or recognize it, the gray-haired, girlfriend in 40 years?
RL: "Hello, Hvedaravna!"
Shekina: "Good morning, Good morning — we seem familiar! (Laughs.) Oops, looks like! "
Reporter: "The villagers for her son, for the church to thank you …"
Shekina: "Yes, they say, and he'll come, get you anywhere — Colonel-General …"
Volodya"One call — and no one else would not be here …" (Laughter.)
Already in Dubrovno at the stadium, I share your experiences with Mr. Petrushenka yes Kornienko.
Reporter: "Nyakrasavskae question: who still live well, more precisely, where — in Belarus or in Russia?"
Petrushenka: "While you were gone, we were talking with someone who has an old photograph border bridge over the river Mireille. And half of the bridge has been reinforced from Belarus and the Russian side — wooden. Poorer lived in Russia. But today our moderate Belarusians do not know that Russian milkmaid earn 50-60 thousand per day Belarus. Our nadaivaet also the average of 300 liters per day. Where is her salary, if there is one day, God forbid, thousands of under 15? "
RL: "After all, the people of Belarus still holds — as the man said, have you ever seen someone who would not keep cattle? Another thing: a lot of artificial, deliberate, unreal.'s When traveling with a trunk two houses were seen by 16 and 8 apartments with broken windows. Why? And next presidential houses are built the same — Agrotown! Lyady always been a big settlement — in Soviet times, lived up to a thousand people, then less and less. was once a hospital, now a tiny FAP. Was creamery, making oil the best in the neighborhood. According to the shipping instructions were given, Russian for the milk to come — now, no. At all pray for this general, did the Orthodox Church — well, of course. But he had to do it? And the local authorities, the church? Such a settlement, as Lyady has the right to be one of the leading — if agroprogramma padmatsuetstsa that was manufacturing. I said — there is an animal on the farm? there. A farm is built in the 50's. What progress here? cabins do not pump out … "
Petrushenka: "Let's answer himself — came to be one of us to live and work in this village? For the money that now pay — will not go. I was in the Smolensk region and met a teacher who signed the agreement that will work for several years in the village — she get our 50 million lift! Give our teacher, librarian, nurse such lifting — and people will go to Lyady. When only now agro — it will be zilch! "
I recall a conversation ending an association with known already old ladies — Mrs. Vesnyakovay yes Chulanova.
Reporter: "How was the border, the worst relations between the Russian and Belarusian people have or not?"
Vesnyakova: "The river is lyadavskaya — and the Russian, Belarusian and bathe. I was born on the Russian side, and lived here 70 years — Belarus now. (He laughs.) They used to go here to play, and we came to them … "
Chulanova: "And now — you're rich and smart, and I'm a fool. Mo. we die today, maybe tomorrow, and young let them fight their way!"