Where have you here dictatorship? Report journalist Vecherki from Belarus, which a lot of talk, but not all true

Alexander Lukashenko

In the summer my friend was vacationing in a small village on the Bryansk. And the chairman of Gdańsk farm asked her an interesting question: do whatever you did the first thing, if held for president?

Her immediate response was not, and he was found. Looking around, just in case the sides, the chairman said in a low voice that, after receiving the keys to the Kremlin, the first decree would transfer their Lukashenko …

I had (thanks, of course, "Lukashenko") the ability to synchronize with the chairman's own feelings. Embassy of Belarus held a regular press tour for journalists of the Russian media in Gomel region with a stop in Minsk at a press conference of the Belarusian president.

Group of journalists could be divided into three conditional camps: a) convinced Syabry Bati at idle question "where are you?" Replies that (for example) from Leningrad, and b) those socialism in Belarusian box (that was hiding, but then surfaced on the Internet), and the "dummies" like me, who decided to form their own opinion about the Belarusian reality.

Russia Belarus hot topic and the patient. Nearly a million Russians associate their country with Belarus. But from what you see on TV are many fever: opposition imprisoned, brotherly people groaning under the yoke of dictatorship, the small business gags in exchange for dollars, where throw eyes — a crisis. So I'm a wise man advised him: "You are there, the political correctness …"

Critical clicked his tongue and far point the finger at a juicy piece of the Belarusian president is very convenient — there is a chance to pass for an intelligent and knowledgeable speaker. Any attempt vostorgnutsya, conversely, makes you an idiot or a paid agent there the KGB. Most faithful, in my opinion, would be easy to describe what he saw, pardon the tautology, the eyes. And it's better that it will be interesting to ordinary people.

Normal kindergarten in the village

Normal kindergarten in the village

In the field boundary was

Gomel drizzle greeted us, bread and salt and television cameras. On the other side mediabarrikady hand she reaches for lipstick, straightens hair, lapels. And it wants to experience from abroad. Although the field is exactly what the Russian-Belarusian border, just do not know (in his words) even President Lukashenko.

For many of our revelation: in order to get into the Union State of Belarus, a passport and a visa is not needed! Enough to buy a ticket on a Russian passport. And customs with the customs here too accordingly no, thank God. Who went to the Ukraine, he will understand.

Look around the landside area — everything is clean? All clear. Cans, cigarette butts, no homeless people. The bottom line: awakened sun, towel from eating a loaf, smiling women in national and tough men in a less noticeable costumes. Men are and will be, but where they are — in general no one cares. Maybe from the state security, can, from the structures of power, can, removable driver.

Since moving bus took us most of the time, we can not say about the roads. Ride on them, comrades, is not interested. No potholes, no sign of patching or shumaherskih overtaking and good driver, "where you're going with a …..?". The most surprising is that in the capital, and in remote rural areas roads are no different, they are equally good.

However, accidents and road trauma Belarusian authorities concerned, not least our own. The rear bumper of each car traffic police advice: "Buckle!" And the streets of the (envy, advertising) are hung with banners and streamers, reminding that we have only one life, but many cemeteries …

That stadium in Gomel outback

That stadium in Gomel outback

"Are not those" officials

Work up the nerve to ask the driver Alexander, what about the road bribes. Replies: "Policemen have modest." Whether the taking, but modestly, or modest, so do not take … But in his book "The Republic of Belarus in the Mirror of Sociology" read that 73% of the union state law enforcement agencies fully trusted.

I hear remarks about government servant sociology. If so, then Motsnyi zdzіўlyayusya the Belarusian dictatorship, caught as indecent figures: two-thirds of the population is strongly concerned about the rise in prices and alcoholism, 62% believe that they are living in badly corrupted society, and one third are not sure about the future. (We have this optimism.)

Colleague from Perm told a funny story. Not long ago while vacationing with relatives in the Belarusian outback, went for a paper to the executive committee, and the cabinet doors first rural people all signs marked "acting" secretary asks: What happened? A good woman does not hide the truth was. One of the deputies with a friend to hunt in the conservation area. They removed all to the chairman.

Deputy chief of the ideology department of the Gomel Regional Executive Committee Irina Dovgalo question about corruption to a standstill not deliver. Ideologues out there on the front lines fighting for all that is good, against all that bad. Read together regional newspaper. "The President has agreed to dismissal of the Director of the Department of Geology of Natural Resources for the commission of an act which is not compatible with the finding of the public service." What are flying to Belarus officials have a head? Irina bends his fingers: lobbying, bribes, immoral behavior, negligence, lack of professionalism.

Sometimes, they say, the punishment overtakes from the sky when the helicopter suddenly eccentric president sits among the pure field and God forbid something is wrong … But always and stick with him. Lukashenko personally come to selhozrayony handing certificates and keys to the "Lada" best livestock specialists and mechanics.

Soviet style of management is working. At a meeting with the Chairman of the Gomel Regional Executive Committee (our governor) Vladimir Janitor was asked the question: "Where do you get these right officials?" — "To grow."

Many Belarusian officials came to power, after working on the ground. That is why, perhaps, and look, and keep it very low key. Head of the district from the Minister of Belarus (stress) of the Government, set side by side, almost can not tell. Cartier and suspension for Queen Anne, if not execution, it is not exactly on the head pat. And the salary from there the officials are not so hot. According to independent experts, ministerial salary in Belarus — one of thousands of dollars, officials of lower rank are from $ 500.

With journalists Vladimir Dvornik spoke after a six-hour reception of citizens on personal matters. Problems are always a lot of people, so the Belarusian authorities invented trick: an appointment to the Governor cause complainant along with the head of the local administration. And local authorities, in order not to make callous 'on the carpet' eyes to their superiors, many questions shoots at his level.

Memorial to the children - victims of fascism.  Tears flow freely here

Memorial to the children — victims of fascism. Tears flow freely here

Homeland of the (b) chischat

One senior executive recently told me in an airplane anecdote, which he in turn told in a ministry: "Who are the officers, Dad?" — "There is such a profession — home clean out, son." Funny, is not it?

I was reminded of why he is. I bought a regular bus transfer paper "New Gomel evening." On the cover of respectable men with worried faces. Under the photo caption: "Bypass if Oleg Oleg Leonidovich?" Well, I think, at last! Read about election scheme, find out what color to Belarus PR. Imagine my disappointment either, or bewilderment — speech in the extensive polemic was against the heads of the Central and Navabelitski areas for leadership in the accomplishment! And the ending is worth: "Competitive appropriate, but it must be reasonable, — said Victor Pilipets race (head of Homel. — Ed.)".

Belarusians are literally obsessed with cleanliness. A feeling that accomplishment — the main theme of their lives. And no matter where you are today was — at the Belarus Metallurgical or Gomselmash, in the city center near the Pedagogical University or backyard is not the most expensive hotel — flower gardens, exotic trees, hardscape, fountains, parks, groves, miles freshly painted curbs and urns , urns, urns.

With the words on the walls with the letter "X" in Belarus, too critical. I think they were quickly painted over. One time, I told Irina Dovgalo, teenagers got into the habit at night to paint graffiti. So professionals working with young people and their calculated Miscellaneous zamordovali. Young geniuses somehow quickly tired and absorbed.

Dictatorial authority, we will not hide from the people of many demands. Under the windows of residential and office buildings — blooming flower beds. On the streets — signs in two languages, you never know who get lost. In the agricultural private sector — similar in shape and color of fences. She even heirs lonely dead grannies-dedulek abroad looking to those houses in order cited.

In villages and agricultural settlements housing starts and ends with maintenance of electric and gas networks. Cleaning driveways and adjacent territories, construction of playgrounds and recreation areas — all for the residents. So valued and cherished his work. So while we have a home, "hee-hee" clean out, they have it hard and cleans every day.

Over the vast expanses of the Internet swim remark: "Russian journalists have once again shown a Potemkin village." Alas, one village there is clearly not done. Rather, they showed us areas Potemkin Potemkin area. Where, by the way, every step of a casino. Play — do not want a dictatorship does not mind.

At the State Belarusian Steel Works

 Signs of mass impoverishment not found

Returning from a trip, my colleague Olga Golubtsova periodically call up and share experiences. And catch ourselves that is, there is one problem with Belarus: what would remember this bad? How would kritiknut there the way?

Yes, perfectly met, officials attributed the President is for the people, the flowers grow, the plants work Agrokombinat attached land and open their own production technology closer to Europe, housing, water parks and stadiums are being built, infant mortality is almost zero in rural gardens kids splashing in the pools, food taste, prices through the floor, guest workers from Asia, no, but …
Belarusians are unhappy salary. In terms of our most common Ruble there salary — five, six, seven, eight thousand. (As if we do not have these numbers.) Authorities recognize — yes, the problem. Because, they say, and go to Russia or European countries valuable specialists and workers. True, glancing now and then at the sides, signs of deep crisis and the pauperization of the Belarusians I discovered. Just like us, cars, clothing, master bags, baby carriages. But no, not all … It turns out that state-owned enterprises wages of workers can not be different (it is government policy) is more than five times. That is, if our cleaning lady gets, say, 7,000 rubles, the general director of more than 35 is not shining.
Maybe it is true that the rich are not the one who gets a lot, but the one who spends a little? In Belarus, the ordinary people, earning modest by our standards, the amounts, and spend a fraction. Communal cheaper every five, the board for kindergarten — 200-300 rubles, the monthly subscription to the pool — 50-70 (in Gomel with a population of Arkhangelsk has about twenty public pools), local products and goods are so cheap, that the Russians are buying from border areas their machines. Which, incidentally, has already been the subject of discussion and discontent in the Belarusian media.

 
With public eye

Affects housing situation. To say that it is built by millions of square feet — nothing at all to say. In Moscow, too, millions, but someone from this other than the developer, luck? In Belarus, it was built on a state scale and scope.
For example, in Minsk did not disfigure the historic city dotted steklobetonnoy modern "architecture." At 30-40 kilometers from the capital will soon be erected two satellite city with direct high-speed rail and roads. And rural areas complain — grow and are built better than many of the capital.
In every city newspaper the highest number of vacancies — agricultural. Wanted tractor, combine, livestock specialists, veterinarians, etc. In every ad large and white: "Provide comfortable housing." Low-rise apartment in the cottage or the house can be used for social order, as may be redeemed by taking out a while longer preferential credit. One of the villagers spoke of 5% per year for forty years. The city loans, of course, more expensive.
Housing in rural areas not only provide those who are ready to deal with corn or Burenkov. In rural areas in search of building the life go (begut!) young teachers, coaches, teachers, music and dance. In a DC we were introduced Frenchman — he married a local girl, directs there the amateur.
Is it any wonder all seen what Belarusian farms provide many Russian producers of raw materials? Yes the same Severodvinsk meat "April". And what is interesting: how many of these "April" across Russia?
In short, I can understand the emotions farm chairman in Bryansk, who is willing to give "Lukashenko 'powers. Pass, I think, is not necessary, but a great human thanks Alexander Grigorievich say worth it. Thank you! For that part of the Slavic people rescued from the criminalization of poverty, degradation, and lack of faith in everything, especially in the power. And for that we, Russians, Belarus is still respected and wait.
But the dictatorship, which is so much talked about, they say, and I'm sure will say … I wanted to ask the peasant on the street, saying, "Where do you have a dictatorship here, my dear?" But little man, making out my positive attitude to communication, has throwing it out of his bucket just got grapes, "From Russia? Eat, eat at zdorovitse! "
Before the dictatorship is not reached.

Natalia KOLOGREEVA

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