If you look at a map of Belarus, the blue stain Narach attracted attention not only for its size. But the sharp and expressive cape, which cuts into the blue. And on that promontory lies the village of Drifting. More exotic places seem to Belarus. Just seems village houses, which rise on a gorgeous beach. And if termometar shows over 35 Celsius, then the choice of the route is no problem — the sediment.
On the way to Cape Narochansky, I could not stay near the tourist parking "Antanizberg." Dozens of cars near the shore. Dozens of young people in the water. A lot of drunk. And near the village of the same name. Sometimes small Belarusian village are proud names that would fit for the big city. No way, the owner of the village was a large Germanophile. Imagine that such a title would have a capital of Belarus. How do you phrase "Official Antanizberg sent a note of protest to Moscow?" With such a name no milk war is not terrible. In the most beautiful antanizberskim house that stands on a hill on the former grounds of the manor, an old Danuta lives. A woman with a nice open face.
Reporter: "Do not bother the tourists?"
Danuta, "Why do not bother? Bored. And in gardens climb, and climb into the gardens. Even firewood. Although they are imported, but they say that one can get yourself a lot of firewood, and others … It happens that night. ..
Reporter: "They are going to steal?"
Reporter: "You live here with one side, beautiful … "
Danuta: "And on the other hand, it is necessary for their well castle keep. Last year, two buckets changed. Middle of the night only — bang. Especially young people. Certainly not family."
Reporter: "I just wanted you to be envied."
Danuta, "And many of us are jealous."
Reporter: "What do you live at the resort."
Danuta, "the resort. And the economy still hold. Course, good. Should work well."
Just at this point as a living illustration of the resort life in the company of young people approached us. A girl of 20 asked for soap.
Girl: "You will not have a piece?"
Danuta: "And in the store?"
Girl: "And in the store are not."
Reporter: "And often to you request it?"
Danuta: "Most of all sorts. And the products, and soap is necessary. And the water is needed. And to charge the phone."
Reporter: "So you can make a small business."
Danuta, "I'm not used to that. Maybe anyone could have. Such a soul. Sent the men to recharge. Sometimes it will come — maybe what you have cover from the pan? And it happens."
By the way, a more favorable place to Narochansky trade than home Danuta hard to find. And one can only wonder what would be in its place that enterprising people. A Danuta keeps a cow and feeds its electricity foreign mobiles.
The road to the sediment is zhyvapisneyshaga along the coast. Stop where you want and nasalozhvaysya life. Neither holidaymakers, no drunken teenagers. The very same village looks much more interesting than I had imagined it. This is not a house on the beach. These are two curved streets. Houses, gardens, orchards. And in the background — Belarusian sea.
On one of the seaside gardens skinny tall old woman with her daughter picking cucumbers.
Woman: "It is all pavymiravshy. Houses stand, consider free. According to one live. That man, that woman."
Reporter: "And free at home you can buy?"
Woman: "Sell. Here at the lake and forty give. And 60 thousand dollars. During our too." We'll buy you and the apartment. Only sell. "Baba is alive, we will be selling. Disagree. And we will still be here.
Old Woman: "The Earth. Will do. "
Reporter: "And why the village lived? Fish?"
Old: "Oh, the fish was! Buries. Had nowhere to go. Now what that fish?"
Reporter: "Before, when Polish peasants from the fish live?"
Old: "Yes. Nets were. Same was all his own. Forest was. Bury wood as you want. Forester There was no, nothing."
Reporter: "This is life in paradise."
Woman: "Why in heaven? There is also a village councils, and district executive committees."
Reporter: "And here they come to war or not?"
Old: "And the partisans were afraid. And the Germans were afraid. We had a pass over the lake. Climb only to drown. This is rare when guerrillas on the lake in winter. Germans and a couple of times …"
I have heard many times from the Belarusian villagers phrase that feared and the Germans, and the guerrillas. But the first time I heard the opposite. They were afraid of the Germans and the partisans. I even thought at first that something did not catch. But my doubts were dispelled the 75th five-year nanosets Marian, who was resting at home with his wife. Window village house with panoramic views of the lake, reminiscent of the frame Aivazovsky.
Reporter: "Germans in another war, they came here in the sediment, or you did not see them?"
Woman: "If were going, I remember. And turn neither the Germans nor the guerrillas".
Marian: "Why? Guerrillas were."
Woman: "drive! Passing drove across the lake. None of us standing here. Neither the Germans nor the guerrillas".
Marian: "Because this side of the lake, and from that."
Woman: "The Germans, I remember one time we stopped."
Marian: "They wanted to send someone to Germany."
Woman: "No one was sent."
Reporter: "Well, you live at the resort."
Woman: "They have been marked in red, where the guerrillas were. They burned the village. Our non-smokers."
Marian: "Maybe they were afraid that around the lake. Kos this goes."
Reporter: "So the war did not kill anybody?"
Reporter: "No house is not burned?"
Reporter: "Nobody in Germany can not keep up?"
Walking through the sediment, I admired one picture: sitting on a bench, smoking a thin wrinkled old man. Deep eyes, a cigarette in the old man's tanned hand. And for a low fence — Narochanskaya blue. Just a living illustration of the Hemingueevskaga "Old and the sea." I asked for a light. Struck up a conversation guileless. Old Vladimir next will be celebrate its 80th anniversary
Reporter: "You were born here?"
Vladimir: "Here was born."
Reporter: "Just on this side?"
Vladimir: "Yes. Century lived on this coast. Both parents died, and his wife died. One remained. Came merchants. Both the house to be built. I said," No. "The three daughters are."
Reporter: "When life was better? In what year? "
Vladimir: "If the Poles are very well lived. And now …"
Reporter: "And why the village lived up
to the Poles?"
Vladimir: "Fish. Fish were caught, no one blamed. Catch though tons. Vozi boats. Carted already in Vilnius."
Reporter: "With the deal in Vilnius?"
Vladimir: "Yes. On a horse. Nobody prohibited. Catch all you want. Was interesting."
Reporter: "And when they began to prohibit."
Vladimir: "How come the Soviet regime."
Remember the old Vladimir and war. As the time of tranquility.
Vladimir: "The guerrillas were afraid. And the Germans were afraid. How to press on the box office."
Reporter: "Therefore do not shroud."
Reporter: "So it turns out that during the occupation of the village Drifting lived their best years? Tendon and tendon. "
Vladimir: "She lived and lived."
Reporter: "Vladimir, you lucky man. You live in the most beautiful place in Belarus."
Vladimir: "I used to be on recruiting went everywhere. Archangel In drove to Irkutsk."
Reporter: "And Baikal seen?"
Vladimir: "I have."
Reporter: "You ever seen the beautiful places for a place where you were born?"
Vladimir: "No. No. I have to revive the century. Soon I'll go to his wife. Should go."
The most terrible misfortune that has befallen Belarus in the twentieth century, in the sediment, in fact, did not even notice. Hundreds of villages burned together with the residents. Thousands of villages were starving. And in the sediment can not even remember what they looked like the Germans. Although there remained near the German pillboxes. But the first war. And a unique geographical position, which was saved in the war, is now played with sediment bad joke. Drifting began to settle in new residents. Nouveaux riches zero years. Two big tall fence of her appeared in different parts of the village. As if the settlement took control.
The inhabitants of the forts in no hurry to get acquainted with the neighbors. An acquaintance took place. At one of the town houses have told me a story that draws on what a horror movie. As the owner of one of the estates of the Wolf released to walk out of his menagerie.
Woman: "They brought a wolf. Released him for a walk. Hungry, and he suppressed the chickens here."
Reporter: "The wolf ran down the street?"
Woman: "On the street. Example."
Old: "And the chickens choked."
Reporter: "Listen, he is a tiger with a lion is not brought back?"
Woman: "I do not know. Horses will be soon. "
Reporter: "A wolf caught?"
Woman: "It was said that he put him in an aviary. Turns out not true. Other people again, he suppressed. All the same howls. "
Reporter: "While some villages are waking up to the rooster crow, you go to sleep under the howl of a wolf. Fun."
Woman: "We live. Water, forest berries."
Reporter: "What will happen to the sediment in twenty years?"
Man: "The remains of extinct. It's all redeemed. Paznosyats shacks. The estate will deliver. And all. "
Reporter: "And will be applied to the gate."
Man: "Of course."
But while alive nanosavtsy old. While the village is not separated from the rest of the country's Turnpike. I advise everyone to pay a visit here. Best beach on Narach hard to find.