Domestic cosmetics Luxe comes to the world market

Russian swings for the first time to create a global brand in the segment of luxury cosmetics. The very possibility of this is an indication of the complex readiness of the economy — the technological, economic, and even the mental, the chairman of the Board of Directors of "NanoDerm pro", Doctor of Biological Sciences Alexander Zimnitsky.

The design company "NanoDerm pros" (Ufa) brought to market the first line of skincare products long-term rejuvenation. Double-encapsulation technology allows the cream to easily overcome the dermal barrier: The skin absorbs without a trace precious components. Naturally, that the effectiveness of the drug increases, and the required quantity and price are decreased, making luxury products available for permanent use.

Now we have to convince the world that Russia is able not only to run the spacecraft, but also to adapt to the high-tech important segment of consumer goods, and knows how to do it well, the task of formulating a scientist and businessman Alexander Zimnitsky.


 In the magazine Expert-Ural number 4 (496) for 2012 presented an interview with A.Zimnitskim.

— Alexander, what is encapsulation?

— Our technology is based in the fact that we have learned to place a molecule inside the capsule of beta-cyclodextrin. In particular, we take the uronic acid monomer, which consists of hyaluronic acid … Do you know that name?

— Every woman knows today that this is a biological substance that moisturizes the skin and promotes cell regeneration.

— Yes, this polymer provides a youthful skin. So we have to destroy hyaluronic acid monomers and put the resulting molecule of the capsule-cyclodextrin of less than two nanometers.

— Why double encapsulation?

— Because it is only the first part of the process. The second is that of the capsules we have done is applied the size of fifty nanometers. And the design is very effectively overcomes the dermal barrier.

— The permeability of the cell is increased?

— Nanosomes easily passes through the protective layer of the skin. Moreover, it is able to pass through the skin and break down there, but we save the created complex. It is a spacecraft sits on the cell surface, it adheres to the membrane. As a result, adhesion special interaction with the membrane surface, the complex molecule is able to be injected, we placed inside of this capsule and not just injected, and to hold it inside the cell.

Thus, we achieve the targeted delivery of the desired substance into the tissues, not only, but also inside the cell, namely there where there is synthesis of the desired substances and, in particular hyaluronic acid. We were able to increase the concentration of monomers in the co-nuclear parts cytoplasm area, which leads to a good synthesis of hyaluronic acid. As a result, its yield is increased in the intercellular fluid, saturate the skin so that it is necessary, either proteins or polysaccharides. That is the essence of the project and the scientific basis of nanotechnology we have created the production of cosmetics.

— In a double-encapsulated and consists of know-how?

— Yes, this one does not.

                                                                   More efficient and safer

— The main part of the process — it is in the unusual transport of nutrients and moisturizing substances into the cell?

— Of course, it is important and that the transport. We not only found a high efficiency of uronic acid as anti-aging component dermokosmeticheskih drugs, but also managed to get her through the protective barrier of the skin. That is, set up a managed process.

— How does your technology from overseas?

— Our colleagues from Germany make encapsulation of the silicon structure. However, such structures have an increased toxicity. It must be said that the use of our products is more and more detoxification — this is a side effect of the fact uronic acid. After delivery address is used not only for the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, but also toxins.

The older the organism, the level of intoxication it up, and the less he can pay attention to the synthesis of hyaluronic acid for hydration of tissue. This competitive processes, and the lack of hyaluronic acid leads to the fact that the body takes her first to detoxify, and then a residual allows it to participate in the processes of hydration and rejuvenation. We have managed to increase the concentration of this substance is much that is good impact on the very first detox at the same time is an additional reserve for the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.

— Due to what you get it?

— Our cream made on the basis of sugars. We use such daily with food, such as potatoes. The Germans used silicon, essentially sand. Yes, it is stable, works beautifully. But for the skin anywhere else is not needed, especially as five times more toxic. So our product is not only effective, but also for security, we are ahead of the western colleagues. And it's very important to cosmetology.

— The packaging of your cream, by the way, is written after opening use within three months. Usually it is at least twelve.

— Most likely, where twelve, too many preservatives.

— And how to calculate the toxicity?

— The classic way: the definition of such an indicator of toxicity, the lethal dose (LD 50), — a common practice.

— Are there analogues of your products on the Russian market? In the world?

— In medicine — yes, in cosmetology not — including abroad. There cosmetology also not the first place: technology first adapted in medicine. We have implemented a medical technology early in dermokosmetologii.

— What made?

— Eat like: medicine did no one pays all used to free. And for the elimination of wrinkles — are willing to pay.

                                                                         Yudashkin for the benefit of science 

— Well, no wonder they say that the main problem of science in Russia is that it is useless. How were you able to combine scientific activities with a successful commercial project?

— My 1991 in this business. There were times when I was just a business. Once the business allowed — just doing science. Was there, then here. Never leave or leave with scientific activity, though aware of all the business processes that take place in Russia.

— The life situation is such that you just had to earn money, I understand you correctly?

— In 1991, it tried to do all of Russia, and we were no exception. You're from Ufa, and you know that we have in Ufa was a restaurant …

— Yes, there was singing was not yet so well known Zemfira …

— And we have clothes from Wali Yudashkin sold. In general, businesses engaged in different, but the money is invested in the development of these technologies, first in the creation of placental cosmetics, then in th
e direction of nanotechnology cosmetics. Our brand "Plazan" time up, he allowed us to have some money on makeup to create the next brand, has more knowledge-intensive. So it turned out that the backbone of our team — the laboratory staff of Medical Biotechnology Academic Institute of Biochemistry and Genetics, which I then chaired.

Perhaps, yes, we are forced to 90 years engaged in business. Life is made. But I am glad that we have created a product of nanotechnology, that tomorrow can be used in everyday life.

                                                                        The Curse of the primacy of the group A *

— Your project has been evaluated RUSNANO. What were the selection criteria?

— RUSNANO estimates primarily economic efficiency and the extent to which the project is ahead of the development of the West, that is how it is competitive in the international market.

Manufacturing cost is low due to the fact that our technology can reduce the maintenance cost components, and not to the detriment of quality. A high efficiency investments: cosmetics easier to go to the market, it is easier to buy. Or invest in a machine, or every woman will take on packaging good quality cream? Therefore, to adapt to the high-tech consumer goods are, by giving them the excellent quality of consumer is much easier than doing the same, producing means of production.

— And what profit investors expect?

— Investments in the project should be profitable in the second year at a rate of 30-40% of the investment. And the net. And in the fifth year — 500% of the capital invested.

But here we are facing another challenge, or better said — the problem. There are no cosmetic brand that could compete, for example, a famous French. In the history of Russia, the Soviet Union, we never released cosmetics luxury segment. It was believed that Russia only pump oil, gas, and the like.

— Well, we produce high-tech cosmetics — is like collecting Lamborghini at the WHA … The reason is that the country has been focused on this market?

— Not only. Even in the level of economic development and technology. It is hard to imagine that, say, the insufficiently developed state such as Botswana can release an innovative product in cosmetology. Nice big brands who does? Germany, France, Japan, well, maybe America. Hence, a measure of the level of efficiency and economy.

I believe that what Russia for the first time on the swings brand building is really luxury segment, is an indication of the complex readiness of the economy — the technological, economic, and even mental. That mental: the perception of our customer disappear stereotypes about what domestic product may not be of high quality. We are faced with a very difficult task: we must convince its quality, its efficiency, which Russia has learned to not only run the spacecraft, but also to adapt to the high-tech important segment of consumer products. And not just learned, and already knows how to do it well.

The company "NanoDerm pro" was established in 2011, the Russian Venture Company and JSC "RUSNANO" as an innovative company engaged in the development and implementation of nanotechnology in dermokosmetologiyu. The aim of the company is to produce a new generation of cosmetics with the inclusion of nanoparticles that enhance the impact of creams. The planned volume of production — anti-aging cosmetics, means to cleanse the skin and professional products for beauty salons — up to 120 tons per year. Cosmetic Products Ltd. "NanoDerm pro" took all necessary examination and found to conform to the highest international standards. The production base of the company is placed in Ufa on cosmetic factory "Zhespar-Bios."

The company "Zhespar-bios" in the market of high technologies in cosmetics and medicine since 1991: develops and produces cosmetics based on the components of human placenta and preparations for medicine. As part of working doctors and candidates of medical, pharmaceutical and biological sciences, the company has its own research and development department, which conducts research on the mechanisms of human aging. Approach to cosmetics in terms of medicine made it possible to create Russia's first allogeneic tissue cosmetics. The company is the world's only developer of an integrated system of skin care and hair care with the use of active components of the placenta.

A little about the Zimnitskaya 

 Zimnitskaya ALEXANDER N.
From 1986 to 1991 he worked in the Academy of Sciences of the USSR. In the three years has gone from a research assistant to the head of the Laboratory of Medical Biotechnology at the Institute of Biochemistry and Genetics, Ufa Science, a leading researcher. Since 1992, the company has created a "Zhespar-bios" with the brand name «Plazan». Doctor of Biological Sciences, has published more than 85 scientific publications, including two monographs, one of which is devoted to the role of glycosaminoglycans in the aging body. The patents on the isolation and method of using placental components in medicine and dermatology, received certificates of authorship for the use of the individual components of the placenta in medicine (gynecology, neurosurgery).
Developed the concept of aging of human tissue-based degradation of the polysaccharide intercellular matrix, which allows the detection of biological age of a person, and its difference from the passport. The research results are embodied in the cosmetic series "Plazan" and "NanoDerm." Provided training for two candidates of biological sciences. Participates annually in presentations at symposia and conferences on dermatology in Russia and abroad, giving master classes and lectures on cosmetology program in Germany, Latvia, Cyprus and other countries.
In September 2008 he became the head of the section "nanokosmetika" at the IX International Forum cosmetology «Beauty rEvolution 2008", St. Petersburg, moderated by a section on the 2nd Forum on Nanotechnology in Moscow.
For the production of high-quality cosmetic products, as Manager, was awarded the "Golden Badge of global quality" (Paris, 2006), the Medal of the "Russian Brand" RSPP

The scientific work of Doctor of Biological Sciences Zimnitsky Alexander Nikolayevich

Structural and functional relationship of nucleic acids, and glycans

The conjugation of synthesis of glycosaminoglycans with nuclear and microsomal unit cells

Dissertation for the degree of Doctor of Biological Sciences

Glycosaminoglycans in the biochemical mechanisms of adaptation to certain physiological and pathological conditions

Tandem repeats of DNA and the concept of matrix synthesis of proteoglycans

The protein inhibitor of RNA-dependent DNA polymerase retroviruses and its prevalence in the human population

Mechanisms of aging and the role of placental cosmetics in anti-aging therapies

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