After a recent series of trips to the Eastern region of Vitebsk-sitting was already thinking of the new geography of routes. Already a phone SOS from ancient Drutsk or Drutsk, as a settlement called for hundreds of years. On the handset was Alex Skrabnev shape with five years ago in Minsk Federation adventure races. He also became an author and an organizer within this social organization, as he says, a special "social and educational projects in velapahodnym flyakone." Or more simply — sports and sightseeing tours in Belarus for foreign tourists. Alex previously taught at the Institute of American local history of modern knowledge, technical texts written in English. It was in August, held a pilot tour project. On further tells himself Skrabnev.
Skrabnev"Came a family — a mother and two sons live permanently in Poland. His mother, an American, 30 years ago, got married and moved to live in Poland — Delhi Uolbryzh GOSIC. I designed the route: Kohanovo-Orsha-Talachyn Syanno and, of course, Drutsk. In Drutsk can be on the ground "to read" where there were trees, gates. With us was obsessed in a good way man — Petrushenka, who knew the history of it, which is not even in the textbooks assigned. It's one thing when you see a mound, the second when you hear that there was 500 years and 300 years ago. If approved route, the record only in its first paragraph. But if we compare with other countries, Belarus loses at once, because in Ukraine or even the Americans nor the Poles do not require visas — you take your passport, if someone stops you pakazvaesh.Tut enough that it was necessary to obtain a visa — they received emergency for which you had to pay absolutely mad money: $ 140 regular Americans, and that twice as much! And in the Talachyn a lot of papers I had to fill out — always on hand. There was a waiting list. This is a common passport office, and we stood for four hours … "
To the Edge 'walk to Calvary, "added the local" difficulties and absurdities "in the district Talachyn.
Skrabnev"Very strange currently leads the executive committee. Even the official policy now — "to open Belarus", "positive PR." We have them for three weeks, sent a fax. They not only did not answer, but pretended that he was "not very readable." Not to Petrushenka, would fall into place with 1,000 years of history. There are no signs, not to mention the English language. The only sign we saw — "Moskaw" on the highway Brest-Moscow. As we were told by Drutsk not lead any excursions — even from their schools. What can we expect from these authorities? Department of ideology gave us a tour of the museum Tolochin. They say — "no money, no money." That is, they have other priorities! '
My decision to go to Drutsk matured immediately. Fortunately, at the same time there was Halshany-Belarusian historical theatrical show on the occasion of the 605th anniversary of the birth of Princess Sophia Drutsk-Golshanskaya, abrannitsy last Polish King Wladyslaw Jagiello. Incidentally, the genus is considered to be in the Belarusian Drutsk aristocracy one of the most extensive, whose representatives throughout the existence ON held high government military and government positions, owned estates in different parts of Belarus, Ukraine and Russia. However, other than the pompous celebrations at the beginning of the century about the dubious at ethnographers and historians, Millennium areas, information about respect local historical attractions have been reported … In the modern village Drutsk where three hundred people, I go into the first hut on the outskirts. The yard is 70-year-old mistress Valentine Koubek with a friend, Mr. Victor Buinichi. Sami indigenous, quickly pick up the themes that they obviously care about for a long time. By the way, 3 years ago, there arose agro-based SEC "Drutsk-agro".
Reporter"Have you heard about the celebration of 605th anniversary of Sophia Golshanskaya?"
Lord"Have you heard, but Drutsk holiday was not any — the church bells rang … U-uy! As it was after dvuhtysyachagoddya since its inception, and all! A Drutsk in their stories worthy of a holiday every year to do! And we neither peasants nor the government does not say — it's a shame! .. Look — here in the house no one lives, there is no one abkasits. Barns are destroyed, to the store on the left side of all cards tumbled down, and no one does not need anything … There was a room, a laundry room — as was the agro, all abandoned. Who built these houses? Gas do not disappoint! Daughter lives there — balcony "popping" and poured glass. In the agro NO no income, kindergarten — used to be a lot of children. Milkmaids work is not enough — 600 and 400 receive, but it is not earning. Now, his daughter and his earnings went down to the school the two children to wear. Was not such as Maslakov was … "
Retrospective. Mr. Valery Maslakov until the last local elections was the chairman of the village council. Having been dismissed. Here's a version also arrived in Drutsk to May request human rights activists and historians Nicholas Petrushenka.
Petrushenka"Maslakov was the chairman of the village council, he was appointed Chairman of the Audit Committee. He correctly calculated — from the presidential administration Popkov less than 50% of the opposition Wozniak more … "
Mrs."Some people do not like it, wanted to remove the person …"
Familiarity with modern drutsichami continues. Shepherd Lavon his name is not called that "the authorities did not swear."
Reporter"How many cows graze?"
Lavon"250, I went for a fortnight 600,000, and not you, I do not know. At a rate of 80 per one — we do not graze together 160 and 250 for the same money … "
As the elder of the village was in the hospital, I go in front of the school principal, Mrs. Svetlana Budnik. She begins, as they say, for the health — to school by September 1, Collected around 46 students.
Budnik"We made a complete renovation — everything is painted, the tables are lined with …"
Reporter"And there were attempts of all time from the government to go back to the historical heritage — you need to travel the waves to swim …"
Budnik"People are coming …"
Reporter"Yes, to you get there! Do you have a tour guide? '
Budnik"The school is a historian, teacher and organizer, a local history area …"
Not far away, as if blown or fallen earthquake remnants of brick buildings. Near the house — in half with boarded windows. I heard a voice inside. In the shadows of the former milkmaid sitting, pensioner Tamara Parfenova with his daughter. I asked what happened.
Parfenava"This was a barn with cattle — now nothing. It's all collective — I pay the rent. She wrote a statement once, twice — "help to build a shed." And they — "buy cement, everything." And what am I going to buy an old woman? Wrote-wrote, and he collapsed. Home too rotten, too, will fail, let us just do not have it. The barn would be put — Parasenko, kurchonka held. But where to go? Oh, I will not seek … "
During the r
eign of "Drutsk-agro" has met with the chief accountant, Ms. Tamara Golik. Woman spoke quickly and in the "subject" — ostensibly, was waiting for me.
Broom"We simply have given nothing but money was 4 million road builders — put asphalt on the farm of the street. Was built only a central gas pipe and housing — 10 cottages. Bank Loans irreversible, and we are having is the circulation of these houses. PLUS loans have other than that — protein materials were taken and 88 million to be closed this year fuel. During the month of revenue from the milk of 120 million, 124 million have a creamery. Yield of 15 quintals, compared to last year gleaning thousand tons of grain. 29 million for grain gave us Bogushevsk — it's entire revenue. To produce was high quality, depends on the people. And they got paid, they do not care, cow milking or not — just how to get to the store. Potatoes do not grow year 10 — it is difficult to work with, including chemicals. And we have no one to cattle sometimes graze … "
I went to the local starazhylki — 79-year-old Nina Ivanovna Dudkevich. Maybe she knows what the local roots of the modern forgetfulness and confusion?
Dudkevich"27 years I worked on the farm, get a pension 700 000, helping his son and grandchildren …"
Reporter"To a place of retirement income at a young age?"
Dudkevich"The one-and-a! After the war was like in grade 5 and I had to work — the people are poor, shook hand, reaped. The village was burned — all Drutsk. The men were not — it's a war crippled man 5. Even a plow pulled by myself — the hunger strike. I remember the month in the "plug" — in the winter manure were in the group. Every day a month digging, earned 112 rubles. I have three children. I came home and sat down — well, now buy anything. A rotten potatoes harvested, mixed with flour, with whom was. After the war, amassed — had 196 cows, even at 2-3 there. Right now in our village only 2 or 3 … "
Reporter"So it happened with Lukashenko, and you retired, approve it …"
Dudkevich"Lukashenko is to blame, people ablyanilisya — buy, why the cow is …"
Reporter"So — the village will die?"
Dudkevich"What? You see how many houses are building … "
Reporter"I was there — and the roof collapses, and the floor is cracking, and the walls take place …"
Dudkevich"This is the power fault, the authorities — people like to build, so, okay. Booze at all — the women are drinking, youth. Here we have a machine-sowing and 2,000,000 earn, if the technique is good. Livestock complex in us … "
Even with said Nicholas Petrushenka head to the old citadel Drutsk. Along the way, stopping by the farm for fattening calves. Gathered around five employees.
Reporter"And how much for a milkmaid heads have?"
Mrs.The contest "fiftieth Total Goals five hundred and thirtieth And we do for a little daroshchvanni — the weight and 700, and 800. Nyapyuchyya herders need, and we all drink in the village — that's earnings the other day … "
Petrushenka"I brought here a few days ago an American family — in the executive committee were afraid to be photographed with them, and your head farm Kunitskaya Valentine says — "even with the devil come, who will replace me hell for this case." I go to the store, the saleswoman asked, drinking man. And it is with dignity — "like all wireless" (laughter)
With Mr. Petrushenka we got to find inside the remains of fort life-giving source of water from which, they say, heals the thyroid gland. But not found the memorial cross in honor of the 1000th anniversary of Drutsk, once consecrated by Metropolitan Filaret. However, the time to talk about the mistakes that date has arrived.
Reporter"1067 we — the year when Drutsk first mentioned in written sources, and the millennium is marked. What is it? '
Petrushenka"Lyudtsy good, Orthodoxy and Roman Catholicism split in 1054. Shastsiklyasniki know about it, but our Academy of Sciences says that in 1001 there was built Orthodox church. And try anything to anyone! But this is only one story. Drutsk was the center of the slave trade. Finally, Novogrudskiy, Smolensk, Minsk princes had enough. Drutsk looted, people were taken to a nearby Kremenchug. But our local authorities want to ensure that our employees are like slaves. Brothers, but this Drutsk!'s only an example of a country where preserved ancient citadel! From these ancient, tourist facilities need to be worn as a feed bag to write! And now in Halshany celebrated 605 years of Sophia Drutsk. 17-year-old girl gave married 75-year-old Jagiello. bore him two sons and she was accused of treason. justified before the tribunal and brought up two kings. And who said of Sophia in our Drutsk or Talachyn? Another example: in Germany far this year on the occasion of the anniversary of the Battle of Grunwald historians have unearthed evidence that Drutsk banner fought against the Teutons. silence about it! A year ago 5 Shashalevich, district chief of Sport said that we are here to make the center of knightly culture. since no celebration. But in the past year, the National Centre for Tourism in Ozerzhy went to the winery — " to do the festival "tangle-legs" "Aktobar festival!" Looking at the government's attitude to the historical heritage, I recall a poem in which these words:
And other people are whispering to us — be quiet! Your soul for a long time in captivity … '
InAlexei Skrabneva, pioneer of the international cycling of local lore, in the end, I asked:
Reporter"Your decision — will continue to travel SUCH Belarus?"
Skrabnev"Sure, sure! Another Belarus. Should themselves go, ask, maybe even pay the man. And what the authorities expect? Not on Belarusian track they run!"