City of Kosovo. Eighth morning. People on the street almost none. Opposite battered buildings cinema middle-aged man trying to make an old "Volkswagen Golf". I come to light and set the endless question of life-being.
Volodya: "Works nowhere. Prop all factories. Not listen to anybody. Poprodavat all."
Reporter: "Here was a plant …"
Volodya: "Furniture. All in private hands is gone. You more or less get the guys. Four 500 — Kosovo malehankih enough. And so all. Scourge."
Reporter: "And what people live? "
Volodya: "On earnings are driving on Russia. Vaughn, look, our cinema. Not smoke there."
Reporter: "The movie does not show?"
Volodya: "Cinema show. Boots, wear a coat and see.
Victoria Savostsina — radical kasavchanka. This grin and hospitable lady with a young voice, and the same young eyes, do not give more than sixty-fifth years Essentially Ms. Victoria rapidly eighties She was born in pre-war Kosovo, which often likes to remember.
Reporter: "Kosovo present. It reminds Kosovo before the war?"
Victoria: "Even close. Developments, many people. People wasabout a lot. These stores. More than 100 stores. It was in the light. Everywhere was a lot of people. People everywhere. And now a desert. Our street has 10 empty houses. Guerrillas attacked as Kosovo, Kosovo made more resentment than the Germans when attacked. So much burnt, and then burned the house Kosciuszko. Guerrillas burned, these cretins. And Puslovskys palace. This terrible farce. Badged partisans nyavchtsivyh many people who robbed. "
Reporter: "And you walked in the palace of war What was it?"
Victoria: "There has been starostva. Beekeeper There was a school. Councils When there was a part of the military."
Reporter: "And what was the meaning of smoking?"
Victoria: "There are people Belarusian, really smart and nice. And there durachiny. Durachiny burned and even later boasted. And we wept. After burning sheaves. Put on the windows. Burned two weeks. "
Kosciuszko Manor "Merechevschine" — almost a kilometer from Kosovo. I’ve been here 10 years back. Then place the manor courtyard was empty space, fenced chains. Crimson romantic ruin near the house where once lived the servants. Neagatychny Palace Puslovskys the road is not visible at all. So it was overgrown with forest. Now the picture has changed beyond recognition. Forest thinned out before the palace. And grayish ruin through the trees majestic ghost. Best scenery for "The Dark Castle" is not found.
Castle even slightly ashlyahetsili — painted pink paint the bottom. To hide many discordant "lettering on whiteRussian language". Former chalyadnitskuyu claimed. In its place is now the cafe" At Tadeusz ".
Same manor rebuilt anew already fourth year awaits guests. And tourists every year becomes more. Especially from Poland. I met a young Nina krosotka Ashurkevich.
Nina: "The museum was opened September 23, 2004. 6 rooms that can look tourists was prepared Only one. Evenly over three years to complete all. Means with his image. Nucleus of the late 18th century. "
Reporter: "And what is the most valuable exhibit?"
Nina: "Spear. Spearheads. People are turning their attention to the sword. Kosinerov And spit."
The exposition can not be called poor. Tadeusz Kosciuszko era represented quite diverse. There is also a weapon. Nobility life presents itself true 18th-century furniture. The walls of the ornate battle paintings. But more impressive is the actual exhibit, which came to us from the Kosciuszko. This is his basement for the goods. Stone steps that lead down steep, remember steps Commander.
Nina: "During the excavation of this tomb was found in what we are."
Reporter: "And it’s all true? Walls true?"
Nina: "The walls of the true."
Reporter: "And it’s all remember the owner. Echoes And, apparently, was the same as in the host. And then what?"
To our conversation joins director Ira Antipenko. Former teacher.
Reporter: "What kids? They know who Kosciuszko itself?"
Ira: "Small utter that hero. A senior knows that."
Reporter: "And who fought the war?"
Ira: "I say that waged war for the poor, no matter where he waged war. He always fought for the poor, that they lived well. We here Kobrin was a museum all its staff. And their Suvorov Museum. As I start Suvorov’s talk about … I’m standing, talking and laughing. I tell them about Suvorov, as an enemy, and they stand and heed. And I was so uncomfortable. faster I already terminated this topic.
Reporter: "It is interesting to strike up some discussion."
Ira: "Colleagues. I will not know how to fight back from them all."
Reporter: "And what is most appreciative audience?"
Ira: "Adults. Very interesting and very grateful. We still had nothing. And coming and could not get words to express my gratitude." What are you fellows, that there is such a place. "Belarusians in our main. There Poles . "
Reporter: "Kasavchane pin their hopes for the future …"
Ira: "From the palace and the revival of the city. Even older people at home we do not sell. Previously sold on the cheap, and now hold. They say" Aha, now here the tourists go. At the moment, there will be built a palace. Hold, later selling. Will be more expensive. "
Four years backwards in Kosovo could buy a two-bedroom apartment for three thousand bucks. Three years back the 5 thousand could find a home. Now less than 16 thousand for any home here for you do not offer. Everyone is expecting the newest, tourist era Kosovo. As a native inhabitant of Kosovo, retired Zhora rustling.
Rustled: "Since February will place a revival of the palace. Must also raise the entire infrastructure. Necessary that roads were at a height, that was kind of houses. All of this will. I believe in it. God has given such beauty. Puslovsky Count, because he was not allowed 6 acres, like us.
Reporter: "Stay at least some mention of Puslovskys?"
Rustled "Oh Puslovskys left, we can say bad. Such led a wild life."
Chairman of the Executive Committee Kossovsky Maria Lyundyshava also links the future of Kosovo with tourism.
Lyundyshava: "On this year we planned restoration. Unesco we allocated 50 thousand dollars. On the restoration of the palace. Republic has allocated 840 million rubles. Make the roof of the tower back. It will take three years. "
Now back home in Victoria strannopriimets Savostsinay. In the last election, Mrs. Victoria own voice gave for Milinkevich. But the present difficulties Belarusian opposition ancient wisest lady looks from the depths of his own past.
Victoria: "What is horror? Horror get into jail. Never. And there is loss of life. This is horror. Horror for life. If for you in 19 years took all night and said," Sign "and" denunciation ". You would not be afraid? In 19 years I was called, kept up all night. And I already had as many. Where I said that. God knows, the NKVD or MGB. Satanic policy — on each other and bring to land a man. As I went the dance and see that he came to my soul. ran home in the evening. said: "Mother, I have food in Kiev." I had a great. So I sat in Kosovo and down Vawkavysk. 85km. You realize that
such horror? I ran off to encounter with him. You do not realize what a horror. "
After 10 years as planning authorities, Kosovo lock one hundred percent change own kind. There will be hotel rooms, a restaurant and even a sauna. Tourist flow of foreigners is in the tens of thousands of people. Kosovo will again become a real city, with a hundred square meters of shops and cafes, where they did not need to run for funds in Russia. But the ancient kasavchanka Savostsina Victoria believes that revive city unrealistic as flying in the air while the response of the horror of the past …
Tags: journey, Kosovo, Kosciuszko