Kitchen as part of the national idea

He 42 years old, after school and army lives and works at home. Member of the BPF. Currently deputatstvo fighting for the House of Representatives with the governor of Vitebsk Vladimir Andreychenko.
Yaroslav told that already currently in the midst of the team’s mottos competitor hears the main stability — cup and Škvarka Belarusians have! In turn, the emperor Bernikovich says: This idea is not entirely a cult — it prymityvizue Belarusians civilization as 20 people-first century.
That’s why next week the public editor ordered reporters the freedom to cook certain subjects aimed at transmitting on "Kitchen as part of the national idea."
Old Belarusian cuisine kept on cereals and fruits
Bernikovich"As a language, and public kitchen — one component that defines people as civilization. Remember childhood: May grandmother lived in the local village Vorontsov. And afternoon fired oven in the glass window effect fire …" What was in preparation, Grandma? "-" Grated pancakes "… Huge such thick — the whole pan! Later she was cutting into pieces, pour sour cream, tormented in the oven, and all went very juicy! Like mushrooms with sour cream — my grandmother also preparing them to me Oh … how juicy! "
Correspondent"And you have some his signature dish?"
Bernikovich"Not only Belarus — with delight cook pilaf, and Kazakh bishbarmak … And with his own love dumplings. But that they were not completely meatless, put there and minced mushrooms …"
Jaroslav Bernikovich convinced Belarusian cuisine — part of national culture, which took a large path of historical development.
About the Belarusian national cuisine testify ancient historical and literary sources, numerous reference books on cooking. So, in 1673 was published in Slutsk book "Zyamyanin or owner Livonia." In 1682 Stanislav Chernetzky wrote "Collecting dishes," Where are 100 recipes for meat, fish and dairy dishes, a lot of sweets, as culinary jokes. A little later came "Cook perfect" and "The Cook, perfectly tuned", "Lithuanian hostess" … In 1995, Belarus started a thorough study of literature and historical Galina Veshki Edward Zaikovskii"Ancient Belarusian cuisine". Sovereign Zaikovskii reads:
"In my opinion, the Belarusian government has a number of kitchen as hell kitchens own neighbors, and actually clean Belarusian features. If you take the connection with Russian, Ukrainian cuisine, the similarities — in recipes pastry dishes, cereals, food of plant origin. Lithuanians With many similarities in meat dishes. Well, can not get away from that fact Belarusian features like a lot of potato dishes. "
Ethnographer Antonina Hotenko I bet with Edward Zaikovskii:
"We’ve got a trigger stereotypes bulbashi, potatoes, pancakes, but if vysnovvats such a thing as public kitchen, you must first assume the raw material from the product being used more, which dominates the state kitchen. Essentially not look to it was the potatoes.
Categories "state food" can be divided chronologically to classic ancient kitchen and that kitchen, which is now used in restaurants, and of families. So here, for the application of the goods in the old kitchen not a potato before, and cereals, oddly enough, and fruit. A potato appeared later than we started civilization. (Well, civilization and we hitherto did not, here it is contingent …) And the national idea, and public kitchen — ethnic nabylis properties if we, Belarusians and Lithuanians, and even deeper in Krivichy — that potatoes and no smell. "
Researcher of the history of the real culture, created books "Belarusian cuisine" and "Food during ON" Ales whitewashed expressed his outlook:
"Voice of a separate Belarusian cuisine, fundamentally different from Lithuanian, kitchen Rzeczpospolita not necessary. Whatever we took — hash that Lithuanians called" shaltsibarshchay "or kravyanuyu sausage, pancakes, grandmother, etc. — just different languages, Slavic and Baltic, and the real culture is the same. So much for the historical nuance. And if we’re talking about Russification Sovietization — the results of its completely different in Lithuania and Belarus. Well what state the kitchen — it’s not just a set of public any recipes component manufacturing techniques, this first kind of mythology, the importance attached to one or another dish, taste, plant. This first psychological perception. And if in Lithuania this complex is more or less preserved, then this in Belarus no. "
National in today’s kitchen has. But it does not stand the whole spectrum
Here is the time to return to the official ideology reklyamavanay Tipo people’s love for "goblets and cracklings." That neperaborlivasts served almost as a basic feature of Belarusian national character, coupled with the "rahmanastsyu" and at times excessive "tolerance." In fairness it must be emphasized modesty in food, to unify courses taught Russian people power. Vladimir Korotkevich once protested against this, wanted to remind Belarusians about their rich culinary traditions. In his book "Land under snow-white wings," he definitely stated: "Belarus likes to eat with relish," and quoted the scene of feasting with an anonymous poem "Eneida turvy." "With such Flemish sakavitasts could delineate food only person who knows and loves to eat," — said the writer and the story of a rich public kitchen.
Results of Russian unification of public power in Belarus now are obvious. In town with tradition — in Grodno, for example — there are no restaurants with public kitchen, look Belarusian dish general problem. As you know, foreign tourists public kitchen — one of the most important devices. Says an international expert on tourism Doctor Svetlana Vladimirovna-Kul:
"Came my Cracow employee, after I was at his home in Krakow, he made me specifically sightseeing trip to the cafe, where they could experience the national cuisine, Traditional Polish, for example. And the kitchens of various regions of Poland. Their service is already fulfilled Tourism. When he was with me in Grodno, he said: I want to eat Belarus, and I had nowhere to his story. No! Some dishes just do. Quite: from and to lay the table Belarus not only with food but also with the customs with regards, do not even know how to eat with relish wish … "
Svetlana Kul Syalverstva continues:
"I firmly do not agrousadby first year, I know what the situation there. Take" Veras "Mackey. Belarusian They cook, there is a signature dish" well ", quite rare, making cakes, with here and there Belarusian. But if the offer — they do, but quite the whole spectrum does not stand up. "
Incidentally, in a new room the other — regional newspaper has a note about this farmsteads, which was visited by "the French, Italians, Germans and Poles," and that, and I quote: "There were ecstatic about the Belarusian potato pancakes, bacon, filet." Tourism Expert continues:
"Other Agriturismo" Above Nieman "in the Lida district: they can cook, but they also only individual dishes, and not quite the Belarusian cuisine. Agrousadby But do more than the restaurants and cafes. When the Germans or Poles come there hostess she tries . "
By the way, last year South American salting Karen Stewart beginning acquaintance with the Grodno region with agrousadby "Over the Niemen," and as she spoke, she remembered swimming along the Neman with making kebabs on a raft …
Why Belarusian State kitchen has not spread? Dr. Kul-Vladimirovna says they turned to cafe owners in Grodno with a proposal to prepare Belarusian dishes:
"It turned out not so very simple — all the dishes must be affirmed. And the procedure is very easy, it is easier to go on the thumb track. So here
it is and bureaucratic barriers, it is not so easy to all."
Biznesmenka Olga Khvoshchinskaya previously had Grodno cafe. Why is hard to keep the cafe and asked why Belarusian dishes? Her outlook:
"I think that it is influenced by two factors, first — a relatively small real level of our people, old people do not go to restaurants, but only for banquets, anniversaries. Every day walk — no such real ability. Prices are not cheap. Businessman wants to make a profit, but by law it is very hard. A public kitchen is missing, it seems to me, as it is not developed national consciousness. "
Businesswoman clear that in adjacent Lithuania for soon built a huge amount, especially roadside, restaurants, public style of Lithuanian cuisine. They are very popular. Grodno press, incidentally, has reported that the Lithuanian government has developed a special program for this, and restaurateurs have given soft loans for construction.
Commented public editor Yaroslav Bernikovich week:
"Having lived a large part of his life in the village, I know perfectly languid peasant work. And this promise of a glass of Lukashenka and pork faces, for sure, to the rural people.
But if you ask the villagers: "How’s life?" You’ll hear: "Well, at this point it is best …" And I understand this answer, because the best in their life really was not. After previously farmers twice a year went NIGHT MODE "in the city" — the fair for piglets. And more from home, no, no, not beheld another life. On the weekend after church and have them only was that a glass with pork rinds …
But time changes — more people go to the same Poland, Ukraine and Lithuania. And, accordingly, vary outlook needs.
So makarom slogan "charka and Škvarka" ceased to be topical for Belarus. "

Modern cafes and restaurants do not have enough "branded" state chips

On that in this case they are oriented? And how to evaluate those efforts? If the public kitchen — feature the same state, that, accordingly, it is part of the cultural and tourist program to foreigners. Is there a place in Belarus, public supply, where you can eat dishes state food?
On days of Motol in Lepel and festivals state cuisine. This is done by including the development of enthusiasm for farm tourism. At each of the festivals involved a dozen local owners, any of which showed his vision of public courses. Popular same thing: the recipe is often a well-known, but the secrets of — personal.
Coordinator of Government programs from Germany Dmitry Karpievich to support the development of Minsk Region believes that public kitchen — a very principled branch in the development of farm tourism. Shares his impressions:
"Struck one dish — she defeated, first place was taken. Dumplings with fish and meat. Yummy!"
One of the hosts participating in the festival public kitchen in Lepel — my companion Alex. He recognizes that the role of competition has pushed support daughters
"I love the sausage itself to do. Travelled to Lepel acquired meat — boar, fresh, not what stores sell clocked 6-7 kg sausage … pancakes — the first dish for me — I make pancakes with meat , twist meat, add Luka … I grow cucumbers freshest, all else, because if you sell it to the soul, then everything goes fine. bottle I had a five-liter, shorter relish. All were satisfied. 10 people I spent the night, Now here they cooked soup, they say they are all super. "
Views on public relations manager Natalia in Minsk small assortment of places of public power, which would correspond to the concept of "national cuisine". If you want to come across a business lunch with colleagues from other countries, it usually invites them in the restaurant "old town".
"This power is good, in the 1-x, its own atmosphere. Vo-2, there really relish prepare national dishes. This pancake and pan fried meat, pechenochki, or something else. And knuckle baked and a lot more often. much that they themselves prepare savory brew, and there is always Krambambulya. "
On the menu range from memories of places are terminated. Significant range, emphasizes Natalia:
"Maybe not the most catchy, but noticeable, state and different from others. Waiters are dressed in national costumes stylized …"
As far as other cities and towns, the national cuisine is also hard to behold. Recommends noteworthy cafes Ales, guide travel through the old places of Belarus:
"There is a cafe in Nyasvizh attractive," Town Hall ", the style. In Golshany — cafe "Castle" … In Navagrudak, certainly, the most decorous — "Valeria". In Grodno there Cancel cafe "lyamusu old." It was opened Tyzengauz still in the 18th century.
"Some kind of dish can recommend more to taste come from?"
"I liked Ashmyany. Coffeehouse opened there in ancient mill and so called" old mill. "So here I like it there very much" meat in Albanian. "And naagul much in their branded any" widgets "…"
State kitchen — it is not only manufacturing, and tradition treats
It would seem that food and politics — fully autonomous sphere of human life. But one can argue with this, despite the fact, for example, what exactly is "edible souvenirs" tourists bring with them abroad, to make it easier to establish friendly business or brought from abroad to not bad memory, which leaves a mark not only in the stomach , and in the shower.
Vitebsk’s oldest opposition Boris Khamaida inclined to "politicize" the culinary traditions, seeing them as a product of the interpenetration of different national cultures. Raised in a Jewish family, he remembers from childhood that coexisted in the home diet of different origin dishes.
Khamaida"Stuffed Fish -" Fish "I really liked it. More carrot stew, in Hebrew it is called" tsimes. "More dumplings made from matzah: strengthen mangled in a meat grinder, add chicken fat, egg, and made here are dumplings in chicken broth . But when my mother wanted me to do something very pleasant, it was asking whether I dranikov. And oh how I was happy, and was even ready to help her peel potatoes. That was a Belarusian national dish. "
Potato pancakes as a Belarusian state dishes safely moved even to other continents. And not only as a cooking recipe: homemade Belarusian tradition at Vitebsk political activist Lena Zalessk, was able to survive even contrary adopted in another country lifestyle.
Zalesskaya"My two daughters live abroad for 14 years, living in America. In America, usually ladies do not prepare: they either bought a drink or get semis. But my kids were born here, in Belarus and their spouses really love home-cooked meals . because they cook with pleasure, especially borsch Ukrainian and Belarusian potato pancakes with meat and meatless. especially loves to cook eldest daughter and her husband just went mad South American how she cooks! After Coke, burgers — all this tasteless! "
Of speeches on political topics culinary vysvetlyaetstsa that foreign spetsy appreciate as a Belarusian state as a kitchen and some local products viz. Knows Vitebsk human rights activist Leonid Svetsik:
"This year I had visitors from Germany: my sister with her husband and their two children. Spouse my sister Teuton, he worked for some time in the restaurant, and because a lot about food uptake. It assesses our food as a more natural — states that food taste itself was in Germany except that during his youth. He loves our dairy products, surprisingly, sausages and bacon in particular. Because they went to the market and purchased before leaving bacon and smoked sausage. And uttered that willing to pay for it and even huge amounts of money — to eat with relish our Belarusian food. "
State kitchen — it is not only manufacturing, and tradition treats. Vitebsk teacher honey uni
verstetu Wilen Korneev, which deals including foreign students pay attention to the obvious difference getah traditions, especially with regard to youth.
Korneev"Foreign students at all prazdnichkom bring in sweets group. Especially on their national prazdnichkom, that we shared with them on further sums homeland nostalgia. Example, the same Indians from the earliest days of classes offered during the break to be treated with their hands classic cakes . Belarusian students in it is rare in most cases they run for the nearest candy store. Certainly, for us is the coming trend urbanized some — if one can not spend much time on the production of food. "
Belarusians in fact some foreigners called "bulbashi" but with this totally disagree member of the CCP BPF Sergei Kovalenko — Khamajda opponent as follower "potato tradition" and associate politically.
"Potatoes — it’s all the same product impoverished peasant civilization. And just when we were" under Russian "potato became the first state in our dish. After all here made poor peasants and serfs willing to do. And we do and was gentry, which strongly ate a lot of meat, so that our people have always been healthy, strong. I think that pertsu in dishes was pretty! But to better understand what is happening in the country, Belarusians would need to report to the iodine at least some dish — very useful for brains! "
So Makar, potatoes and meat with classic spices — garlic, onion, dill, nutmeg, cloves, coriander and basil, with the addition of iodized salt production Mozyrskogo plant can be regarded as decals Belarusian civilization. The envy of foreigners and local comfort lovers and consumers of culinary art.
That, ladies and gentlemen, you drink this and your culture!
In Russian, most of the republics had "liquid" brands that reprezentavali for their geographic boundaries. Our homeland flooded other vodka, Caucasus and Moldova famous wines and cognacs, liqueurs Estonia supplied the best Belarusian infusions "Belovezhskaya" and "bison" were simply an indispensable during visits Belarusians in other capitals and meet strict currency. What drinks emphasize national identity of modern Belarus?
After the collapse of the USSR Belarus quietly defected to the universal ink-range vodka and drink problem state was not concerned. Not a lot of lost even that there were "calling card". First, 1990 Polish producers patented brands "bison" and "Belovezhskaya" and now all the international export of these species comes from Poland. "Belovezhskaya" Minsk factory still produces "Crystal", but this product is for domestic use. "The liquid currency" devalued and lost in the midst of a huge number of types of alcohol, standing not much more for the most a cheap vodka.
Few years ago there were producers who set out to position Belarus through alcoholic variety "Bulbash" — specifically the hard sign at the end. Belarusians now moving somewhere to visit, take as souvenirs that bottle is not always aware that they themselves give themselves and the country in the form of mocking.
Why not hitherto appeared candidacy "bulbashi"? Where to go away "Krambambulya" which first appeared in 2000’s as the state drink times majestically Duchy of Lithuania? With these questions, I turned to one of the managers of the enterprise in the production of alcoholic beverages "Belarusian drink" Dmitry Dayneko — Vyrobnika said "Krambambulya":
"Now we are preparing a series of broad" Krambambulya "that we believe will be a real state brand. Here and there in November will be on store shelves this drink. And about "bulbashi" I did not read quite right, for they vytovortsy and we are manufacturers. But for my personal case, I do this hard character at the end fundamentally hate. So wrote during the time of the Russian Empire, and because the drink can take part as an imperial. Such an attitude towards Belarusians as "bulbashi" I object strongly. But this is my personal opinion. "
Dmitry Dayneko convinced that we need a national brand of Belarus in the field of alcoholic beverages. After all, "Bulbash" for this role can claim a stretch, but "Belovezhskaya" no longer revive:
"Was" Belovezhskaya "its hitherto create the domestic market. In his time doing, and at the moment do the Poles. At the same forest grass take on it and create a drink that is known in the world. Where I went, even in the land of the rising sun beheld in stores vodka, which is called "bison." So they sell worldwide. And we soon Let ‘Krambambulya "- a famous drink times majestically Duchy of Lithuania. That is, we believe, should have caught those not indifferent, as the drink is called and who wants something original Belarusian. Because soon be "Krambambulya" that no one produces, not counting the "Belarusian drink." And we will do is something truly national. "
Correspondent"But" Krambambulya "one time was already in stores?"
"It was. But at the moment we are greatly expanding its series, it will not be one drink here as "bulbashi" do, will go a whole lot of drinks on local raw materials. Book will cling on to the bottle, which will be written about Lofty Duchy of Lithuania, will explain to the people. That’s how it will look. "
Ilya — quite a young boy. Actually does not use strong, but surrounded by friends is nicknamed "alcohol." Got her for old recipes that itself produces the oldest noble beverages — already mentioned Krambambulya also zbitsen. On some of the experience I had perehodin this and that and the memory remained extraordinary — unaccustomed to the fact that alcohol can be really fruity! Ilya is doing its job, as stated, only for propaganda and educational purposes, treating a case not only of strangers, and Belarusians. Drinking culture, views on Elijah, at the moment is very far from the standard:
"It is obvious that such a state will drink one of 3, while historically Belarusian — or Krambambulya or zbitsen or also still mead. Any of them has its own particular history through references in old books, many historians remember these drinks. The fact that vodka has meaning "naklyukatstsa" for a short time, but the main idea of these drinks — try, try them out. They are never more than a certain degree. For example, mead and zbitsen less than 20 degrees, and Krambambulya 30-35. In the chip, and that they have a taste, unlike vodka Same. "
Correspondent"If one could issue the same zbitsenya, mead at an industrial scale, they could become a brand of Belarus in this market?"
"Several years ago, appeared in stores famous" Krambambulya "from producer" belp "(currently they are only vodka" Hit "," Krambambulya "disappeared). All my friends, whom I treated this very nabyvnoy "Krambambulya" were ecstatic. She was both male and female, and she liked everything. Now we have another, I know zbitsen in stores, it is also in demand. But it’s all part of something considered unusual, exotic. Although in fact it is quite natural. "
Desire to experience something tastier for vodka factory in people already there. The most striking example — sightseeing tours in Dudutki near Minsk, where guests are served already mentioned mead. At the same time, enjoying a drink tasting even those habits relates very relaxed. What drink — and a culture. "
Comments Yaroslav Bernikovich:
"All beheld vodka (maybe not the worst in Belarus)" Bulbash. "But make him the number one brand of State is not necessary — it’s insulting to the title of the Belarusians. Litsezreem We’re not in Russia drinks" Moskal "or" Katsap "in Ukraine "Crest&quo
t; and in Italy "Makaronnik."
But our neighbors use our same Belarusian brands. For example, the Poles in Bialystok sell "bison" in Lithuania — "Stark".
Speaking of "Stark". This product is in the initial version did not differ either in technology or quality of the famous Scottish whiskey. So what is not a brand?
Need to find and retrieve his own, returning him national fame. I mean that we should turn around in his past! Sure, the Belarusian special product should be taken from history. "

Tags: state, Bernikovich, Krambambulya, kitchen

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