They say, when these places passed Russian Empress Catherine II, with its wind blew her hat.
If five years ago here, after 30 years of sailing on a fishing trawler — from Dickson Island to Antarctica — Valery Palyudav back, from what you see on a small home it blew my mind.
He is sixty-two. We are talking, walking together along the central and sole, except alleys, streets are almost three thousand village Polotsk district.
Reporter: "Look here, what kind of houses in the center gorposelkah — twisted, facades down distressed, no glasses in the windows."
Palyudav: "It’s crazy. And even more insane military camp on the mountain. Barracks destroyed because the Germans in the war could not. If part deduced hanged building on the village council. A means to care is not isolated.
Brick need — go all there, c’mon "bombard" — holes need plugging in the economy. Shops have closed. Two-story department store was, "Children’s World" — all crosses destroyed. Here are pulled from nearby villages — there spihvayuts home, acquire and live here. "
Valery sovereign indigenous vetrynavets knows ancestry to the third generation. The reasons for the return of the Russian Federation said briefly:
Palyudav: "At home, of course, pulls, where the umbilical cord is buried."
For pension funds, but bimonthly leaves at Russia — enforced.
Palyudav: "I have uttered in the mail that will transfer 30% shooting. Was necessary keep the tax report — red tape … We Gorposelok — area, telephone, hospital, post office. How where the wilderness? Is not clear. "
Where "not clear", I visited. Three kilometers from Vetrino got off the bus, a lonely old house with litsezrev. Side with the highway. Canopy closed. Yet, moves inside a figure. Revealed a narrow, like a slit window through which happens our conversation with Mrs. Anna Martsevich.
Reporter: "And there were bandits?"
Martsevich: "There, where nobody lives, take root and tomatoes, cucumbers. Afraid to open to anybody … No telephone. Continue to exist in the past year, a pig, but 10 thousand fur flour, bran — 5. Expensive, right? Currently 5 chickens all the time, disappear. steal a road — the fox, perhaps … "
Hostess, incidentally, always in winter clothes.
Martsevich: "House — 100 years since built. A wood — trim buy in the woods select where worthless. Winter cold …"
Finding out where he came from a stranger, aunt Hannah suddenly strikes me that asks to see the certificate. And … states that heard me on Radio Liberty. It turns out that the wave of "Freedom" — not only for her relationship with the outside world through the old "WEF".
Re talking with sovereign Palyudavym.
Palyudav: "The price of old holding something. Schoolchildren here all tend to go. Youth nowhere to go — the school and the school disco. And no work. Collective farm wages — no glory. And if there is work, it is busy. Hold people that at least get something. Lukashenko It read, "to devote their attention."
Reporter: "So you still believe Lukashenko?"
Palyudav, laughing: "You have to listen to both the President and believe at this point no one can — neither Putin nor you."
Valery must maintain a lonely 60-year-old sister — invalid second group of diabetes. There was a time in her paralyzed legs. Helped droppers in the clinic. Now, says chykilgikae itself. We at its yard.
Palyudava: "Potatoes in May will plant cucumbers in greenhouses. Seven hectare garden — nurse died, I have enough. Products Brother helps me."
Reporter: "The government is busy for you or spit-cast?"
Palyudava: "No, we do not ask. Neighbor helped carry water. And I duck grows four pussy in her — and Ginger and chernenky. Mice overfishing in the house and garden — satisfaction! NOT cat and duck — Katia in vetrynavsku ! "
Such are senile vetrynavskiya entertainment. Galina even moonlights as a cleaner at the school. In high school, five hundred students. Half — from nearby villages. I met seventeen Slava Stepanov and 16-year-old Slava Sanka yes Misha Tumovskim. I ask, want to stay in Vetrino.
Men: "No, not I would like to stay. Here all know pall … rusty water … and where to work — in school, in the" herringbone "No … how to get a higher education — 30 km from Polotsk".
Reporter: "And who would want to become?"
Men: "Lawyers … civil engineers — until I have pleased their forces in Vetrino … I would wish to work in the police, the MOE lifeguard. Here also is not falling, but wish to study in the town."
Interrupt recording. At this point the future policeman pushed his friends aside and, with a wink, suddenly began to read like clockwork. Friends, looking ahead, it is not supported. But oh so everything was.
Reporter: "And such a thing as power, felt — what country we live in?"
Tumovski: "I like the president, he is a decent, Belarus thrives."
Reporter: "How is your father earns?"
Tumovski "No father from me."
Men: "In the Blade for yourself punitive not felt, but fear lyudi.I our country Lukashenko unlimited power, and it suppresses … While on for myself did not feel, but you know that does not side with the best estimate of our president. "
I go to a meeting with a man, which holds vetrynavski world. So him not only rumor. In which case, do not go to the village council, where, they say, "some excuses," and to the 70th monarch Victor Karasev, informal human rights activists, historians, history teachers.
He is considered legally savvy, besides never refuses compose a letter to the higher authority. Incidentally, Victor R. — creator of officially registered in the State Register Emblem Vetrino — windmill 7 winds. Inventing was also the 500th anniversary of the village three years back. Interlocutor makes concise historical review.
Karasev: "In the ON of the Principality of Polotsk in Lithuania went gantsy.Zdes carts changed. Document 1552 states that it is" the highest available windswept place. "From 1924 to 1960 he was district center. Thundered life — was wood, carpets made. Military units subservient many sought. Clinic district, forest, farms, collective farms — all it takes people. "
Emperor Victor knows about than readsso himself a retired major, served for 27 years here in the strategic focus of the missile. And in a Russian village in time stood Tank Regiment battalion and cars that after the collapse of the Soviet Union left Russia.
Vetrino well as other military camps, expect unenviable fate. Unemployment, and of the land around the crop failures. Average wages — from 150 to 300 thousand.
Sovereign states Karasev
Karasev: "We utilities, forestry Vetrinsky, clinic, experimental base" Vetrinsky "provide jobs. Private traders here are poor — means people do not have. Means decline."
Incidentally, I went to the road in a single personal shop here. Director Tatiana Beck is not afraid of opponents — what and when there is demand, has long understood.
Beck: "We started the season when vacationers. Winter backfilled. Turnover year twice."
Reporter: "You have the greatest demand that uses it?"
Beck: "Meat products and beer. Summer goes on cooking sugar — apples, berries."
Victor R. sorrow nods — problems above his head. And — so far intractable. And they continue to fall after 30 vetrynavtsav teeth.
Karasev: "The main thing — that remove iron from the water, make install. And because of heavy transport large zagazavanasts. Lake overgrown. Addressed to MPs -" seen. "Promise, promise."
Reporter: "Vetrino — a village that dies?"
Karasev: "Slightly stabilized. Currently made auctions to pass these houses, creating to do."
Owner indicates quiet, comfortable lake just 10 meters from the framework of your own home and leads to a neighbor — 68-year-old May Nikolaevna Ephraim. Third year, she began organizing agritourism. For this time then rested for three hundredths tourists. We sit in the living room with animal skins on the walls and a huge fireplace.
Reporter: "How can advertise yourself?"
Ephraim: "Only nature! Quiet … Far away from the road, cars can not be heard. The house bathroom, toilet, on the lake — the depth of 6 meters. Immediately can take up to 20 tourists. Bozheski Cost — 5 thousand a day. They themselves come zamarynavanymi with barbecue — the main youth picnics. Here firewood, fire tables. "
I leaf through the book Karasev. Viktor Ivanovich — created regional editions "My love Vetrino" and historical essay "My heart piece."
Litsezrev, companion, lover sits on the ridge. Incidentally, the known and that their findings and achievements it here using charitable sponsors materializes in monuments and commemorative plaques known villagers. This is a list of some of his mouth only.
Karasev, "November 14, 2003-th. We close Vetrino first born in Belarus and Russia internationally popular female geologist Anna Boleslavovna Misuno, dasledchytsa glacial deposition. And all references erroneously designated the place where she was born.
I was able to prove that near Vetrino and there is a memorable character. And in Vetrino — Anna Misuno street. Bronislaw Ignatovitch Epimah-Shipilo, founder of the community, "the sun peep in our little window" guardian and father, as it calls itself Yanka Kupala.
In last fall opened a memorable character — 16 tons and 100 kg of stone! And metal signboard with bas-relief. And finally — on Midsummer preparing to open board Grinevich Anton Antonovich, who gave life collecting folk folk music — composer, publisher. I am a patriot Vetrino. Should not be lost is the beauty that spilled here. "
Traveling from Vetrino mixed emotions — all-I heard and saw a lot yet hopeless. But the mood suddenly improved meeting at the bus station with a student Polotsk Hoerki Agricultural Academy, future agronomist, 22-year-old Volodya Kalachaevym.
He went to practice there, where I come from. First drew my attention to his own jacket, which was covered with inscriptions of "Marlboro". Neuzh is such a fan of smoking?
Volodya, "Smal seven years, a pack a day. But do not get the buzz, so it can throw."
Scamper to hope for the future — in two 20 it disturbs most.
Reporter: "And if you plug fifteen years in the presidential house and village neperspektyvnyya — throw?"
Vladimir: "I knew what was going on in Gorki. Pulls the village."
Reporter: "And to the latest life ready?"
Volodya: "And then I ready to land, hunting there."