Braslaw: Two face of the earth, frozen in waves

Telling of the last journey in Braslaw, I, like 6 years ago, during the first trip, I can not get rid of the snow-white envy of those who rest in These days are Paazerya Belarusian capital.
Who takes in depth, right up to fifty meters, and consecrated sunlight stately quiet large lakes Strusto Snudy yes.
In general, Braslaw good in any weather. In particular, if you look from the highest point — mountain Lighthouse. My old friend Constantine Szydlowski, regional museum researcher, researcher and philosopher of history of the Vilnius Region, told me two stories.

Shydlouski: "Stanislav, Dr. Institute of Turin (incidentally, the roots of Braslau) — famous explorer mapping ON period. We stood on Mount Beacon. And it only from Norway, friends drove by fjords and says that this is the best place on earth. And he said — this picture is the best.
And they brought the head somehow tourist country, to show — that’s the beauty in beauty, admire. First asked why there is no ski lifts? People willing to lick anything, articulated: a few years will.
Funds have been spent. And the whole universities are working to 20 meters pour this mountain. People who have worked, says heart bleeds. And it is curious that the protests of ecologists, geographers nor to no avail. And that helped out? Is the danger that backfill, experience Silichev, will slide … "
But the freshest memories, as they say, is often more truthful. 27-year-old painter and art critic Avgen ticket Braslaw constantly lives in the fifth month. Working in an ethnographic museum. Braslaw removes his natural curiosity and thirst for beauty.

Ticket "first watch stay here could not hit — very! Earth frozen in waves. And the city and its inhabitants united as reeds on the water. Went to the store — you can ask what-nibudt Belarusian, for you will answer, "without a smile."
Feels and backwoods — the month is not able to make a plastic card in the bank: "What do you want, and so kartachak miss …" I’m talking to one guy: Oh, Braslaw, sea, lovely girl. A young man up to the eleventh grade they’re there, and later fine if a child — will return. There are no jobs — the customs units other church, cottages podremontirovali and all — left! No constant earnings.
Krasa, birthplace, grandparents … But to grandparents for a day can come from Minsk. Incline painters come of age and is widely known in the narrow circle of the "stars" of the Belarusian pop, get the cottage, as have the means … "
More than six months back the facts of illegal construction of mansions were the main Tipo sonorous in the criminal case against the Department of State park "Braslavsky lakes." But how cost 6 years ago in the recreation room "Zolova" that area of the National Park, 150-300 bucks a day, and stand.
This is evidenced once my friend, the painter Valery Zenkevich.

Zenkevich: "I wish that were in Braslaw enterprise, steel road, as it will kill Braslaw. So come take cottages in those places where, during the USSR, on the lake Hair, people could walk, but imagine — someone something will build unauthorized! And at the moment there is a settlement of modern design — gayteki, baths on pallets.
I aborigine 100 percent. I guest on Mount Beacon now do not drive, so there is no sense that our land. Boring, that the structure of the National Park Tipo exists to raise the area to preserve nature. Now he’s turned into a modal enterprise: you have a pass, you come inside, but no — no way. People, allegedly got jobs. A forest is destroyed. Times heard — timber with oaks of Braslava fortunate! "
The decree on the development of the State Park "Braslav" came into force thirteen years ago. And secure the future of the 10000th Braslava — tourism.
Once here acted steel road-NGR, which can be was traveling through the beautiful places. Airport, from which it was possible to fly to Minsk for 20 minutes. Not to mention the organized fishing, sailing, hunting …
Now, to return all of this, they say, the government has no money. It also does not allow the service sector to make personal. And braslavchane come with tourists as well as the government with them.
Reads all the same Valery Zenkevich:
Zenkevich: "If people want to open a private company, the executive committee shall utter it: we have the National Park, this is his area — examples. There is an opportunity to pay a fixed tax for a room for a month, and people take tourists feral way, from 3 to 8 bucks day per bed.
Well, there are those who have worked, and their TV, kitchen, bath, cool. Some who take vstydaetstsa pretty huge funds without facilities, reduces to 2 bucks. And there are public facilities in the yard is not — and 3 bucks. People long hammered that Braslaw — resort region. People believe in the end … "
In an interview with Valery Zenkevich sign flashed memory.
Zenkevich: "On Braslav election in modern president in general no chance not to be …"
I met with the chairman of the community PKB Mrs. Januszewski. Lubov, presently retired, in Russian Time wasand fifteen years secretary of a district Party ideology.
We sit in her truly modest but comfortable apartment. States that the community is small, but strong — in Lukashenka PKB, they say, no one ran.
Januszewski: "We consider them renegades — with greedy purposes there went to get something. Infy at the moment, not counting the one that gives municipal teleyaschika not have. And what we hear is spreading that litsezreem . hear that our prices do not increase, cut-rich. And go — Father! Every day newcomer worth.
A pension will not increase in these circumstances. A third part of the cast for the utilities, the rest for everything else. I had a conversation with old teacher, "We read newspapers, listen to the radio. And no reads us nothing! And they say to us, it is!" If you will not pay pensions, forget it — and read what … "
But on the spiritual wounds and administrative torment one of the first businessmen Viktor Braslav Voronko not something that is not forgotten — they are not healed. What was not engaged in sixteen years! Cultivated mushrooms, oyster mushrooms, led auto parts trade, drove MAZ with potatoes in Russia.
First of the new millennium, Victor put four thousand dollars for reconstruction, rented a canning plant fishery, which was idle a couple of years under the watchful eye of the then head of the Office of Presidential Affairs Ivan Titenkov. For download drove his hands fish from the Gulf of Riga. About it he told me six years ago. But — that told of days.

Voronko: "My investments in reconstruction were unused — dig. Canned shop worth. Perazaklyuchyv the National Park is not a contract with me. Tipo it means I need for reconstruction, but will not return, I uttered.
MAZ — eight years engaged in international cargo. I drove to Riga, and "appeal" could not drive it, because certainly necessary under the "sput-Cornet." This is a document which entitles go without pay and downtime for customs clearance of cargo. Collateral for "sput" was 10 thousand dollars. Could property lay and get a bank loan.
Four years back the Ministry of Transport and Communications made a condition — our Belarusian carrier is required to have a deposit of 40 thousand euros. The bank was on the interest you have to give 400 euros, and it is all my income. Although Latvia collateral for "sput" two thousand, one in Russia tyscha bucks. This is the caseelk, so that small carriers crush — failed. In the end they had to implement the technique for the debts … "
Now Victor obliged odd jobs to survive. Only a positive answer to the question of who in Braslaw for these six years has been better received by the organist, Sunday school teacher at the Church of the Nativity of God the Queen Mum Lakes Inna breather.
By the way, learning how to and worship, then the sixteen years since the opening of a day or Belarusian. 6 years ago, had five hundred, now 450 students. Meanwhile, 60 percent of Catholics, Orthodox Christians follow on, a large community of Old Believers. But in those years, first trip to Mrs. Ina mood was close to despair.

Breather "were selected papers from the priest, that he has the opportunity to work in the church. A motivation — Tipo it forces kids, so they came. Send to all executive committee and began to seek documents. And they uttered: we have planted. And evolved to scare, dark winged "Raven." And the people themselves were to climb into the car. crammed a lot. They were taken out of town — released … "
Now this is Inna Breather recalls how about the terrible dream. Now here charitable funds built a great new space for Sunday school, where conducted, and the way youth discos for pupils. 30 young actors put two performances — "Nazareth" and "Way of the Cross."
Here opened and two commercial shops — school, he says, the government will not help. Inna Breather said to me:
Breather: "We can rejoice, people not forgets tradition — we have a full church, not the old woman and the young person. And the fact that the school was reduced to 50 — Certificate of demographics … "
Their attitudes to demographic dilemmas justified as he called himself, and 6 years ago, the main garshkalep, sod, rulers and militant camps Braslava dilettante — a painter Valery Zenkevich.
Zenkevich: "Edge is still not extinct — the youth will come in 30-40-year-old. And there are many examples of this. People who enjoy urban culture dance rastamanov, but his daughter, went to Minsk, with such tenderness that breathes air, saith: "Smoke of the Fatherland and sweet, and pleasant?" Well, well! Man often and often comes here. I can not say that here, "mountains and fjords, and hordes of beautiful people," but nature is so measured, the equilibrium. "
Reporter: "Braslav live forever?"
Zenkevich: "There is no doubt."

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