For Starters, Cut and Assemble The Table Frame
1.To make the legs (A), rip and crosscut four pieces of 3/4-thick stock to 5xl7 1/2M. (We selected clear pine.) Next, lay out and cut the tapered inside edge of each leg on these pieces where shown on the Table Exploded View drawing opposite. (We used our tablesaw and an adjustable tapering jig, but you can also cut this taper on your bandsaw.)
2.Rip and crosscut two side rails (B) and two end rails (C) to the dimensions listed in the Bill of Materials. Next, make two copies of the full-sized 2 1/4-radius pattern shown on page 19, and transfer it onto the ends of both end rails. Now, bandsaw the ends to shape, keeping your blade outside the line. Then, sand to the line. (We used a 2-diameter drum Sander.)
3.Lay out the screw-hole center points on the side and end rails where shown and dimensioned on the Table Exploded View drawing. Then, drill and countersink 3/32 shank holes through the four rails. Now, sand the rails smooth.
4.Glue and clamp the legs to the side rails, making sure that each leg aligns flush with the side-rail edges and ends. (We used Franklin’s Titebond II, a water-resistant glue suitable for outdoor use.) Next, using the shank holes you drilled in the side rails as guides, drill 7/64 pilot holes 1/2 deep in the legs. Now, drive a pair of 3/8 flathead wood screws, then unclamp.
5.Glue and screw the end rails to the leg/side rail assemblies, making sure that the top edges of all parts are flush. (See the Exploded View drawing.) To do this, first drill 3/8-deep pilot holes in the leg edges using the same procedure you followed in the previous step. Next, stand the table frame on a flat surface, and check for wobble. If the frame wobbles, identify the longest leg(s), and sand the bottom end(s) until the table sits flat.
Next, Prepare the Tabletop And End Pieces
1.From W-thick stock, rip and crosscut a piece to 7×24 for the tabletop middle piece (D) and two pieces to 7x 10 for the mating middle ends (E). Next, cut the four remaining tabletop pieces (F) to size. (See Tip no. 1 at left.)
2.To cut the rest of the end pieces, first rip a piece of 3/4-thick stock to 3×42″. Then, cut four inside end pieces (G) and four outside end pieces (H) to 1″ longer than finished length.
3.Copy the full-sized 3″- and 3 1/2M-radius patterns shown on page 19. Next, transfer the outline of the 3 1/2″-radius pattern onto one end of one part E. Stack this part E on top of the other part E using double-faced carpet tape. Band-saw the radius, keeping your blade outside the line, then sand to the line. Now, crosscut the two parts E to final length, and then separate the pieces.
4.Transfer the 3″-radius pattern onto the ends of parts G and H. Then, repeat the stacking and bandsawing procedure described in the previous step. Sand all radii smooth as before, then crosscut the parts to length.
5 .Lay out screw-hole center points on the five tabletop pieces (D and F) where shown on the Table Exploded View drawing. Next, counter bore and drill shank holes as dimensioned on the Screw Hole detail. (We clamped a fence and stop-block to our drill-press table to ensure accuracy.) Using the Table End View drawing shown below left for reference, lay out and counter bore the ten end pieces (E, G, and H). Now, drill a shank hole centered in each counter bore. Finally, sand the tabletop and end pieces smooth.
You’re Ready to Assemble And Finish the Table
1. Position the tabletop pieces (D and F) on the frame. (We cut 1/8-thick scrap spacers and placed them between the parts to ensure even spacing.) Now, center the pieces and check for square. You should have a 3/4 overhang at each end and a 3/4 overhang at each side.
2.After positioning parts D and F, clamp them to the end rails (C). Using the shank holes as guides, drill pilot holes 3/4 deep in the end rails. Then, screw the top pieces to the end rails using 8×1 /4 flathead wood screws.
3. Using the same technique, attach the ten end pieces (E, G, and H) to the end rails using #8×1″ flathead wood screws. To do this, align each part with its mating tabletop piece, and butt it snugly against that piece.
4.To plug the counter bores, first cut twenty-four 3/8X5/16 plugs. (We cut the plugs 1/4 deep in 3/4-thick stock, then resawed the stock to W thick.) Now, glue a plug into each counter bore. After the glue dries, sand the plugs flush, then sand the ends of the top pieces flush with the outside faces of the end pieces.
5. Sand all surfaces that need it. Then, prime and paint your table. (We used an oil-based primer and then applied an oil enamel.)
Let’s Cut and Shape The Footstool Parts
1.From 3/4-thick pine stock, rip and crosscut two pieces to 3/8×14 1/2 for the feet (A), two pieces to 2×13 3/4 for the rails (B), two pieces to 13×3/4 for the legs (C), and one piece to 2 1/2X14 1/2 for the stretcher (D). (We lettered each part after cutting for easy identification.)
2.Stack the two feet (A) face-to-face using double-faced carpet tape, and do the same with the rails (B). Make two copies each of the full sized Foot and Rail half-patterns shown 011 page 19. Flip one copy of each over, and trace the pattern through onto the back of the paper. Attach the halves to make a full pattern of each, and adhere the patterns to the two stacks.
3. Band-saw the feet and rails to shape, keeping your blade outside the line. Then, sand to the line. Using a backup board to minimize tear-out, drill 5/32 shank holes through both feet and rails where marked on the patterns. Next, drill 3/8″ counter bores 3/4 deep, centered on each shank hole, on the outside face of each foot and rail. Now, separate the pieces.
4.Lay out and cut a 3/4×2 1/2 notch in one end of each leg (C) where shown on the Footstool Exploded View drawing. (Note: Be careful to make accurate cuts so that the legs will fit snugly around the stretcher.) Next, set your table-saw miter-gauge at 8° from square, and miter-cut the other end of both legs where shown on the same drawing. (For uniformity, we attached an extension and stop block to our miter gauge and matured both legs at once.) Then, sand all footstool parts smooth.
Now, Assemble Your Footstool
1.Dry-assemble and clamp the feet, stretcher, and legs to check for fit. Then, disassemble the parts, apply water-resistant glue to the mating surfaces, and reclamp. Now, remove any glue squeeze-out with a damp cloth.
2.While the glue is drying, use the shank holes in the feet as guides to drill 7/64 pilot holes in the legs and stretcher. (For dimensions, see the Footstool Exploded View drawing and the accompanying Screw Hole detail.) Then, drive 8×1 1/4 flathead wood screws into the feet and legs, and use 8×2 screws to attach the feet to the stretcher. Now, remove the clamps.
3.Glue and clamp the rails (B) to the top outside edges of the legs where shown on the Footstool Section View drawing below left. To do this, center both rails along the top ends of the legs, and carefully align their top edges flush with the leg ends. Using the rail shank holes for guides as before, drill pilot holes in each leg. Now, attach the rails to the legs using 8×1 1/4 flathead wood screws, and remove the clamps.
4.Measure the distance between the outside edges of the two rails. (Ours measured 16.) Next, cut five 1 /2-wide slats (E) to this length from 3/8-thick stock. Cut four more slats (F) to these same dimensions, but tilt your blade to 22 1/2, and bevel-rip one edge of each. (For reference, see the Footstool Section View drawing.)
5. Counter bore and drill a shank hole at both ends of all nine slats where dimensioned on the Footstool Section View drawing. (We clamped a fence and stop block to our drill-press table to ensure uniform hole placement.) Now, sand a slight round-over on all slat edges, then sand the slats smooth.
6.Starting with one of the beveled slats (F) on the angled flat surface at one end of the rails, attach each slat in succession using glue and screws. (For positioning, see the Footstool Section View drawing.) To do this, first drill pilot holes as dimensioned on the Footstool Exploded View drawing, using the shank holes in each slat for guides. After attaching the first slat, use a 1/4-thick strip of scrap to space the slats consistently.
7. Follow the same approach described for the table to cut thirty -3/8 plugs. Glue the plugs into the counter bores, and then sand them flush after the glue dries. Now, prime and paint your footstool as you did the table.