Let s Start by Cutting Four Plywood Panels
1. From a 48×48″ sheet of 3/4-thick plywood, 1 cut the two side panels (A) to the dimensions listed in the Bill of Materials. (We selected Honduras mahogany.) Lay out the 1/2 and 3/4 dadoes on the front edge of one of the side panels where shown on the Side Panel Front View drawing on page 7.
2.Fit your tablesaw with a 1/2 dado set, and elevate it to 3/4. Next, align the first marked dado with the dado set (l 9/16 from the top end), position your rip fence, and cut the dado. Without moving the fence, cut the dado in the other side panel. Then, reposition the fence, and repeat this operation to cut the second dado in both panels. Now, use the same approach to cut the remaining 1/2 dadoes.
3. Change to a 3/4 dado set, and cut the one 3/4 dado 3/8 deep in both side panels where shown. Next, cut a pair of 3/4 rabbets 3/8 deep along the top end of each side panel. To do this, attach an auxiliary wooden fence to your rip fence, and set it right against the dado blade for zero-clearance.
4.Change back to a regular 1/8 blade, and cut the top and bottom cabinet panels (B) to size from the same plywood stock. Next, switch to a 1/8 dado setup, and cut a 3/8-deep rabbet along the back inside edge of these two panels. Then, cut an identical rabbet along the back inside edge of each side panel (A). (To cut these rabbets, we used our zero-clearance auxiliary fence.)
5. Lay out and drill four countersunk shank holes on the underside of the top panel (B). (See the Exploded View drawing.) Then, dry-clamp the four panels (A and B), and measure the rabbeted opening for the back panel. (Ours measured 193Ax217/i6n.) Now, cut the back panel (C) to size from Vi»-thick mahogany plywood.
6.Next, fit your table-mounted router with a chamfering bit as shown in the Chamfering Setup drawing above right. Now, rout a V32″ chamfer along the outside front edge of each side panel (A).
7.Glue and clamp the four panels (A and B) together, and check for square. Next, temporarily nail the back panel (C) in place to help hold the assembly square until the glue dries. Then, drive 4d finish nails through the sides and into the ends of the top and bottom where shown on the Exploded View drawing. Now, remove the back panel.
Add the Face Frame and Trim
1.From 3/4-thick solid stock, rip and crosscut the face frame stiles (D), the bottom rail (E), and the top rail (F) to size. Next, using the same chamfering setup you used in Step 6 above, rout the back outside edge of the two stiles (D). Now, tape these trim pieces temporarily to the front edge of the assembled cabinet. Check for fit, and trim if necessary.
2.Glue and clamp the face frame (D, E, and F) to the cabinet where shown on the Exploded View drawing. (Note: The mating 3/2 chamfers on the stiles and side panels will form a 1/32 decorative V-groove. See Tip no. 1 above right.)
3.T0 make the front base molding (G) and side base moldings (H), first rip the parts to width, then crosscut them 1″ longer than the lengths specified in the Bill of Materials. Next, tilt your tablesaw blade to 45° from square, and bevel-cut both ends of the front piece to finished length. Bevel-cut the front ends of the side moldings, and then trim the back ends to length. (For accuracy, we attached an extension to our miter gauge and clamped a stop block to it. Now, glue and clamp the base moldings (G and H) to the bottom front and sides of the assembled cabinet.
4.To form the bottom trim pieces (I and J), first cut a piece of W’-thick solid stock to iyi6x62″. Fit your table-mounted router with a 1/32 round-over 9’bit, and rout one edge of this piece.
Then, switch to a 1/2 round-over bit, Stop degree and rout the adjacent edge.
5. From the 62″-long piece of stock, -n crosscut the trim pieces (1 and J) to 1″ longer than their finished lengths. Set your miter-gauge at 45° from square, then miter-cut both r ends of part I and one end of parts Miter . Next, trim parts J to length. Now, 0 spini glue and clamp the trim pieces to the top edges of the base moldings (G and H) and to the cabinet.
6.To form the top and bottom cove moldings (K and L), cut a piece of W’-thick solid stock to 3×64″. Fit your table-mounted router with a 1/2 cove bit and a fence, and rout both edges as shown below. Then, rip a W-wide strip from each edge to form two lengths of molding. From these, miter-cut and trim two front cove moldings (K) and four side cove moldings (L), using the same approach you used in the previous step.
The Top Comes Next.
1.Cut the top (M) to size from W-thick plywood. Next, make the top edge pieces by first cutting a strip of W-thick solid stock to 2’/2×62″. From this piece, miter-cut both ends of the front edge piece (N) to length. Miter-cut one end of the two side edge pieces (0), then crosscut the opposite end of each to length.
2.Fit your table-mounted router with a chamfering bit as shown in the Chamfering Setup drawing. Next, rout a 3/8 chamfer along the inside top edges of parts N and 0 and along the top front edge and sides of the top panel (M). (These mating chamfers will form a decorative V-groove.)
4.Transfer two copies of the full-sized Corner Spline pattern shown on page 9 to W-thick plywood or hardboard stock. Next, bandsaw the two splines to shape. Now, cut and miter-cut the three longer splines to the dimensions shown on the Top Assembly drawing.
5. Glue, spline, and clamp the edge pieces (N and 0) to the top (M). (See Tip no. 1 on page 7.) Allow the glue to dry, then remove the tape.
6.Center the assembled top from side-to-side, and align its back edge with the back edge of the cabinet. Using the shank holes you drilled earlier in the top panel (B) as guides, drill 3/8 pilot holes 1/2 deep in the underside of the top (M). Now, attach the top to the cabinet (without glue) using four 8×1 W flathead wood screws.
7.To attach the cove moldings (K and L) to the cabinet, first drill 3/4 shank holes in the moldings. Glue and nail the moldings where shown using #17×3/4″ brads. Then, set the brads.
Now, Set Up an Assembly Line To Build the Ten Drawers
1.Rip and crosscut twenty 1/2×9/32×15 3/4drawer glides (P). Glue and clamp them in place where shown on the Section View drawing. Remove any glue squeeze-out immediately. (Before making the drawers, see Tip no. 2 at left.
2.Cut the drawer fronts (Q) to size from 3/4-thick stock. Then, from l/2,-thick stock, rip and crosscut the drawer sides (R) and backs (S). Next, fit your table-mounted router with a ‘/»»-radius corner beading bit, and rout the decorative bead along the bottom front edge of each drawer front. (See the Bead Routing Setup drawing opposite.)
3 Change to a lA» slotting cutter, and rout a 3/8-deep groove centered along the inside edges of the edge pieces (N and 0). (See the Top Assembly drawing and Groove detail above.) Then, rout an identical groove along the front and side edges of the top panel (M).
3Lay out and drill a pair of W screw holes (for knobs) through each drawer front (Q) where shown below on the Drawer drawing and the Drawer Front Section View detail.
4Fit your tablesaw with a 3/8 dado set, and cut a rabbet along both ends of the back face of each front (Q). (See the Front Joint detail shown with the Drawer drawing. We used a wooden auxiliary fence for zero-clearance.) Next, change to a lA» dado set, and cut a 9/16-deep notch in both ends of each drawer front. (We stood these parts on end and adhered them to a carrier board.) Change to a 3/16 dado set, and cut a dado near the front end of each drawer side (R).
and cut a groove 1/2 deep along the outside face of each side where shown for the drawer glides.
6.From 1/4-thick mahogany plywood, cut ten drawer bottoms (T) to size. Then, glue, assemble, and clamp the drawers. Check for square, then nail the drawers where shown on the Drawer drawing. Now, set the nails, and allow the glue to dry.
Sand, Stain, and Add the Finish
1.Finish-sand the cabinet assembly, drawers, and back panel. Then, apply your choice of finish. (We applied two coats of Minwax natural oil stain, allowing each to penetrate for 10 minutes and then wiping off the excess. After the stain had dried overnight, we sprayed on three coats of Deft semigloss lacquer, sanding lightly between coats with 320-grit sandpaper.)
2.Nail the back panel (C) in place. Then, attach a pair of 3/4M-diameter knobs to each drawer front. (We used brass and porcelain knobs, which we found at our local hardware store.) Finally, rub a bit of paraffin on the drawer glides, and insert the drawers.