Hams, collecting their own devices, often customized size functional units under the existing «cases», which are usually protrude from the body of outdated radio equipment. Then there is only to alter the front and rear panel, or to make them relevant lining. For secondary sites, not «sticking in the mind,» used «the box» on industrial devices for different purposes (up to packaging containers).
Another possibility is to «pack» their design — buy a ready housing. Now in stores radio has a varied selection of plastic and metal enclosures that are manufactured specifically for home-made electronic devices and different presentable appearance, versatility and ease of layout nodes.
Spending money on a brilliant «foreign product» really do not want to take up a drill and file to bring it «to the mind», but in fact even if prihoditsya.A «Oshibochka out» what happens even with experienced technician, or a new idea as work in the head, «slammed»? In general, often hams, thinking, stop at the makeshift buildings. The material taken pieces of foil fiberglass suitable size.
First drawn sketches of walls and partitions, arranged the details and dimensions of the board and shall be verified. You can use three-dimensional modeling, taking the finished board and components, or a computer (an immense scope for creativity!). According to some sketches are transferred to the size of glass fiber foil and cut the workpiece based allowances for docking. There are two versions of the docking body parts:
The second embodiment provides better appearance, but requires more precise adjustment of grinding parts and their edges at 45 °. All the holes for the switches, indicators, connectors, connecting wires, etc.. Should be done in advance: a plate to work much more convenient than with the finished box. Cut holes in the panels can be a jigsaw or by drilling a series of holes along the contour of a small diameter drill, chisel and cut down the bridge circuits sanded file.
Then the mating edges of the walls are well stripped fine sandpaper, lubricated or acid solder flux and other active tinned-distance races on the 3 … 4 mm from the edge along the entire side of a conventional solder (pic-60 pic-61, etc.) soldering iron power 40 … 60 W with a fat tip.
Solder the parts fit together. Using a toothpick or a match on the edge parts on the inner side (grassing, where there is a seam) solder give acid 2-3 «points», after which the items are soldered to each other at these points. Take the following piece, puts it to the already welded parts and also «prihvatyvayut» at several points. Since going «live on the thread» the entire body.
Harvested box align if necessary perepaivaya skewed details. Inside the case is placed and soldered to the walls and bottom of the fixing elements of printed circuit boards and other components design (parts made of fiberglass or thick tinned wires). After soldering closure housing washed well with a brush under running water with detergent.
The cover at the corners mark out and drill holes diametrom3 .. .4 mm (under the screw or screw).
With stranded tinned provoda0 8 … 1 mm remove the insulation and on the shank of the drill .. .2,5 01.8 mm (about 0.5 … 0.7 screw diameter) wind the coil of 2 turns .4 .. which is well propaivayut, removed from the drill, cut and soldered to the corner of the box. The same coil soldered to the other corners and adjusted under the holes in the cover.
The lid is fastened with screws, included in the spiral (in them at the same time cut a kind of «thread», and screws are kept well). After that, the projecting parts body parts are removed with a file and sandpaper communicated. In the case of irregularities and their shells shpatljujut followed by grinding after drying. The quality of this operation depends on the appearance of the body, as the paint is showing no embedded defects. Of course, the painting only after washing, degreasing and completely dry surfaces. For better adhesion of enamel surfaces must be primed and sanded again.
In addition to painting, the finished housing can paste over self-adhesive film. This is — a material that has almost unlimited possibilities for the realization of designer fantasies. Self-adhesive film is waterproof, t.e.p.
The base, which is necessary to paste over, must be clean, smooth and free of dirt and dust. To degrease the surface, you need a good scrubbing with water and detergent, and then with acetone or other solvents. The ideal foundation boards are varnished. Rough, porous surfaces (wood, plywood, chipboard, etc.) are aligned with the help of putty and sanded. They are then ground (nitrovarnish or acrylic) for maximum adhesion self-adhesive film with a-new.
The film is cut into pieces the size of fining parts with allowance 1 … 3 cm (the more detail, the greater must be allowance).
When pasting from the edge of the protective paper film is separated (at the length 2 … 5 cm) and is bent vnutr.Etot edge is applied to the surface and sticks Xia. When the film is laid incorrectly, in most cases it can be immediately separated and paste again.
At the edges of the film is folded and glued to the inner side. To facilitate the process, it can be heated manually hairdryer. When pasting box 45 ° edge of the film on the side surfaces of the folded and glued on
1 bottom, which is then glued solid cloth. His neatly trimmed edges along the contour with a razor blade.
When sticking the film butt flag superimposed on one another with an allowance of 1 lap … 1.5 cm, but the edges are pressed tightly not. These overlapping edges of the film are cut carefully with a sharp knife in the middle of the line, cut strips are removed and smoothed out the edges of the film. It should be noted that the cut pieces of film rolls along well combined (joint place almost unnoticed, even if you leave a small overlap), and provide a visible line across the alignment.