Legend has it that the question «How to understand that at a construction site ENDS REPAIR AND BEGINS FINISHES?» The famous Armenian RADIO replied: IF YOU DURING CONSTRUCTION shake FEET BEFORE leave the apartment, it REPAIR
And if you do SAME BEFORE YOU SIGN IT IS FINISHING. The conclusion is clear. A fine line between repair and finishing ran right … RIGHT BY flooring.
When the walls are plastered and plastered ceilings already gained its final form and featureless construction site in the eyes gradually acquires features of a loved one at home, it’s time to finishing the floor covering. All logically interconnected. The presence of floor covering involves walking on his sneakers, well cemented rather suggestive of street dust and dirt. Slippers are associated with the house. The sensation varies from happening. At the same time as the construction of the accumulated fatigue rolls and threatens to overflow the cup, it opened a second wind just in time.
Tired of the city, want to feel underfoot something pleasant, natural, comfortable, warm, pleasing the eye. For me there are only two materials that meet all the above requirements. This natural wood and not less than natural cork. However, with the latest, subjective, work a little harder likely due to the lack of necessary experience. Therefore, the choice fell on a tree. The wood of these species, such as oak or beech, in most cases refers to a product which is in the price segment «above average». A little expensive, but the (non-liquid does not count).
On the other hand, cheaper conifers, such as spruce and pine, are too soft, they are more prone to adverse effects caused by fluctuations in humidity and temperature. In the end, my choice fell on larch. It has a wonderful and distinct grain pattern, well handled and has sufficient resistance to temperature and humidity influences. Resolved: on the floor of my house will be based on solid flooring made of larch.
PREPARATION OF THE SURFACE
Installation of solid wood flooring is not an easy exercise. Required to prepare the site carefully, paying attention to each layer: rough floor, perfectly aligned with the finish floor, the mounting base properly installed plywood, which in turn will serve as a support for solid wood flooring.
Rough sex in our case is a monolithic reinforced concrete ceiling. Great surface for subsequent alignment thorough, sound, and has a solid reinforced safety margin finally warping. On the monolithic base can mount all your heart desires. Alternatively, pour polyurethane floor, dozens of iridescent colors and Estimates, lay ceramic tiles or ceramic-granite, lay laminate substrate of suitable thickness, and, of course, to fix the massive floorboard.
Whichever of the above options for finishing is chosen (except, perhaps, ceramic tiles and ceramic-granite), you first need to carefully and accurately align the base construction. For this purpose, it is best to take advantage of the ingenious invention of mankind Self-leveling floor. It is a modified dry mixture, makes life easier for builders. Elevation on the floor that we should turn into a flat surface, is directly dependent on the culture of work and skills of those involved in the construction of the house. As a rule, solid ceilings, flooded in private homes to those workers who are doing similar things, not every day, elevation is 24 cm. By the way, in prefabricated buildings, they are within 12 cm. In this case the elevation changes made in an average of times 12 cm.
To calculate the required number of bags of self-leveling floor recommend using the simplest method. Accept mean deviation of the surface level of conditional zero for 1 cm, since it is somewhere all is 2 cm, and elsewhere in the same goes zero. Then, the floor area of the aligned multiplied with the manufacturer’s expense mixture of 1 m2 at 10 mm layer and obtain the desired total weight of our dry self-leveling floor, which is then easily translate into a number of bags.
Then mark up the heights and given conditional zero by screwing screws into the ground to the required depth to subsequently adjust the thickness of the filling layer, focusing on hats sticking out of the floor. Gruntuem and sweep the surface of the slab. When the primer is dry, proceed to the kneading of the inlet floor. Since we use a mixture of plaster, which hardens quickly enough, you want to show some quickness and, of course, choose the right tool for mixing.
To solve such a problem is the best fit spindle mixer with adjustable speed I personally took advantage of a two-speed model Felisatti MKF1200 / VE2 with constant electronics and soft start. I continue to learn the technique of the brand, and frankly, the farther away the more I like it. But back to our story.
In the case of a slight floor it requires fairly rapid mixing of the liquid solution to a homogeneous state. Even though the small size of the vessel where the finished mixture, mixer Felisatti MKF1200 / VE2 helped ensure prompt fill the entire floor surface of about a hundred square meters in a few hours, thanks to choose the right tool. For quite a long time continuous operation (self-leveling floor prepared in two buckets: one serving is kneaded, the second applies poured), the gearbox and the engine, the little hot. Variable speed proved a great addition to the high torque and good form of blades and smooth start-up, this mixer is advantageous to distinguish from many similar models, to prevent splashing mixture that positively affects not only the mood, but also on the state of outerwear. Often, after mixing paints, or any other similar substance all people and objects within a radius of several meters are covered with small dots of the solution, which was supposed to be on the wall, floor or ceiling, and not on others. When using a mixer MKF1200 / VE2 operator virtually immune from such misunderstandings. In a word, cool device, and rightly so.
Screed stood at a record pace. Feet do not believe it! Eyes, by the way, too. We do not really have time to relax, and on it is already possible to walk. Upsets only thing that will have to wait a little longer to start plywood mounted on a perfectly level surface. By the way, before gluing the plywood floor is recommended to be primed with a special polyurethane primer. Expensive, of course, but it ensures the reliability of adhesion of glue to the floor. It is advisable to stick to a single component veneer or two-component polyurethane adhesive, in some cases, give it additional fixation with dowels, nails, which should drive with extreme caution, because often laid in the floor communication. A direct hit into the tube or electric underfloor heating cable will not only be an occasion for the honorary title «Sniper Year», but also lead to significant time and costs. Based on the foregoing, I recommend to abandon the competition in accuracy, and for the installation of plywood where the paved communications, particularly heating pipes and floor heating, use a more reliable (though quite expensive) two-component polyurethane adhesive.
To avoid internal stress of the material (in this case the substrate), cut sheet of plywood in several parts. Glue them to the floor at a distance of 57 mm from each other: the resulting expansion joints allow the structure to successfully offset the natural deformation of the whole structure due to fluctuations in temperature and humidity. By the way, when cutting plywood I used a circular saw Felisatti SCF184 / 1400 carbide saw blade Freud.
Plywood mounted. Due to the presence of semi-public communications something I decided to limit ourselves to a simple gluing sheets without additional fixing dowels. However, in this world nothing is perfect that’s life. Even self-leveling floor, equipped by all the rules, still has a deviation from the absolutely flat plane. However, differences millimeter, they did not catch no eyes, no level, no rule. But and plywood is far from ideal: its thickness can vary within the same millimeter, or even more. Nonsense, of course, but … There is quite commonplace accumulation of errors, and that the difference in height between the two glued to the floor with sheets of plywood is as much as 23 mm. It is sensitive, if you walk barefoot on such a basis.
And here comes to the aid grinder. Large platform with a diameter of 200 mm allows you to align and bring to zero all that may become a barrier to restore a beautiful, durable, smooth and high-quality floor coverings made of natural wood. It is a wonderful device called
Felisatti APF200 / 1010E. In fact, it is positioned as stenoshlifovalnaya machine specially adapted to rough or finish plaster, putty and their ilk. Moreover, it is for this purpose and it was purchased. However, forced to note that this model with wood cracked down no less quickly and accurately than the above wall coverings. Test «drevoprigodnost» passed. Beauty! Though, I admit, I’m a neat finishing of the joints perform other machine eccentric model Felisatti RGF150 / 600E. No, it’s not that it’s better than his «colleague» APF200 / 1010E. This is a completely different technique, therefore, any comparison seems incorrect and inappropriate. Just RGF150 / 600E, in my opinion, is more suited to perform delicate operations on small surfaces, a APF200 / 1010E due to the large diameter of the dish rather intended for solving large-scale grinding tasks that require quickly align a plurality of square meters of the corresponding coating.
Carefully we clean all the joints at the junctions of sheets of plywood. You can also use a polishing machine to achieve the perfect result. Well, something like Felisatti APF180 / 1010E or DPF180 / 800. However, the finish polishing of the substrate under the solid wood is rather a pastime for perfectionists or just thorough to fanaticism of people who are accustomed to do any work most efficiently, regardless of the amount of time spent to achieve the ideal result. Neither the one nor the other, I do not consider myself just got carried away and lost in thought, busy grinding each weld joints on sheets of plywood. Hands are busy, but the head something is free! And it seems like idle. Here are born in it all sorts of funny ideas.
Laying solid wood
It’s time to glue and fix solid wood. Required to withdraw a minimum of centimeters from each of the walls, because the tree tend to breathe, saturate with moisture and, as a result, grow. First we coat the board with the same glue, which we fixed the plywood to the floor, then put it to his spine and groove to the wall and fasten with nails from the wall in the wrong place, which would then be covered plinth. Then gently butted next board beforehand missed glue and nail a thin nail in the spike at 45 °, which allows maximum tight mechanically attached to the plywood board. Nails we exhaust careful that they do not prevent us from following closely dock boards.
Normally, nails 45 required per linear meter of the board, that is the width of the latter, which is 110 mm, we need at least 36 nails per square meter. Even if every nail need only five neat fine tuned hammering, still it will take at least 10 seconds, then nailing every square meter of solid wood flooring will take at least 6 minutes, that is, ten square meters per hour of work. Not wanting to spend the whole day on a similar procedure, I decided to use a gas installation Nailers AIKEN MGN 850W Gas, which drives a nail into a tree, allowing you to adjust the force of impact (that is, in fact, the depth of immersion of the cap to the timber), and spending even a second (or slightly less) on each nail. It is right to some nail gun!
And finally flooring solid wood is completely installed. It remains to wait a few days for the adhesive to have finally secured to the plywood boards, and to the self-leveling floor. Next I’m going to cover all this beauty with special oil and parquet wax to preserve the charm and warmth of wood, creating a home atmosphere of comfort, tranquility, warmth and comfort for years to come.