In the glorious and satisfying future we promise to Rostov is no accident. To that there are at least three good reasons. First, of course, local gastronomic traditions, relatively confident survived the Soviet period. Don ear, buns, pickled vegetables, dried and smoked fish here is absolutely organic part of the culture, not an ancient fossil, like soup and cakes in Central Russia. Second, the nature of grace and energetic farmers. Local products, seasonal menu — it’s not fashionable bait, increasing the price tripled, and the natural conditions of work of any malomalski decent places. Finally, the location of Rostov. The town is surrounded by the main producers of almost all the most delicious thing in Russia. In the north — black earth potatoes and other vegetables, from Astrakhan and Kalmykia carry watermelons, melons and delicious lamb, with the South Caucasus — fruit and nuts, with the Azov and Black Seas — the freshest fish and mussels. Feed guests tasteless food in such conditions is impossible, even if desired.
Meeting with the local cult meal should start with the Central Market. The fact that the case is serious, you know, finding, for example, in the ranks of the potato where there is nothing but endless buckets of different varieties of potatoes. Above each bucket rises plaque with the name of the variety, the locus and recommendations how to cook — cooking, frying, baking — this grade.
What is called the silly word «specialties», there at every step.
In the ranks of the fish in the basins rowdy live crayfish and carp, on the other hand stacked piles cured vimba, shamayki, roach and bream. They found salted, smoked and all sorts. To cover from the sun signs «Made on a private oil-shop», facing a row of ladies dipped in sunflower oil-filled plastic barrels, glass jars and stretch their noses to the buyers. Oils totally different: fried and raw seeds and nuts smelling one, the other toasted bread, the third ground, but only the spiritual and fresh. As it should be on the right fair walk between the rows instead of buffoons varying degrees of sobriety and sanity crazy city, unprintable talks about the eternal, Roma with huge bags of food and other strange people. In the ranks of pickles are treated to unparalleled pickled plums, pickled same
FEED tasteless in such conditions is impossible even if desired.
grapes, watermelon and salty pickled apples — last much sharper and sweeter than in Moscow, with the bright flavor of horseradish.
The holy of holies — a huge hall with smoked meat, dairy products and fat. The Lord here — Uncle Valera, the only man among the sellers, which salts (and bloat) the best bacon in the market — as soft as butter, meat with abundant veins. No less valuable dried, fragrant spices beef tenderloin. Below — a huge room with fresh meat. There generally every department on the area — as a full market in Moscow.
And STAROCHEK NOVOCHEK
So they call the village and the city of Novocherkassk Starocherkasskaya old and new capital of Cossacks, both within 30 km from Rostov. Starochek looks like a cross between New Orleans and Suzdal: whitewashed brick walls and domes of the churches here are combined with huge balconies of the colonial type, green shutters and lush vegetation. Around trays with souvenirs handicrafts, among which we recommend infused cherry plum moonshine. Snack ear, donuts and other regional specialties at each corner.
After a pastoral village Starocheka Novochek seems almost second Petersburg. Ascension Cathedral, Ataman palace, triumphal arches for viewing mandatory, but just aimless walk through the center will be very pleasant. In the final, it is necessary to go to the cafe «collective farm» in the central square to drink liqueurs dill and white kvass. Before the visit do not forget to go to the drugstore and buy earplugs soundtrack here monstrous.
HORSE MARKET CALL hardball appetite, quench that we recommend in these establishments and around the city:
Dining rooms are built around the letter F open kitchen, where all the possible ways of preparing meat — of course, only fresh local. Business Card steak itself, that is part of the rib: huge and satisfying. No less noteworthy fashioned beefsteak and marinated in a mixture of English pepper steak. Character them a little less, but they are much more tender steak. Interior correctly brutal countless bottles of wine, pork legs and cowhides.
Bistro with fireplace, wine and all sorts of wine snacks rectangular pizzas to be submitted to the same rectangular boards. But most importantly, for what it is worth to go — this enchanting desserts. Unconditional lyrics Napoleon. If there is light at the ideal of this cake, it is fed into the «apron.» Absolutely no homogeneous liquid cream, over-dried cakes sweet sweet mass, which wants to have forever. Only a little less bright feelings cause panna cotta and tiramisu. Krasnoarmeyskaya 168
The cozy and spacious (three rooms, two sundecks, which are called annuals and balcony) bar «snuff» local «Red October», the cultural center in the buildings of the former factory «Don tobacco». On the menu here will not melt, take a beer (there are different outlandish English ales), local fish roach, vimba, bream and crawfish. Dark, rich green color them in, «Bukowski» brought from the banks of the river Manych. Equally good Azov haarder this fish is served in a sauce of fresh tomatoes. On the walls — boards with maps of places, where carry certain products. Under the boards meets the local elite, musicians from Motorama drink at the fountain and their colleagues set up instruments on stage. Mentally incredible.
DON EAR «
There are important local dish better than in the same place, also known as the «Institution entrepreneur Popova», 20 km from the center of Rostov on the road to Azov. Best way to deal with yesterday’s unjust way of life does not exist. Popov served two soup — classic Don and «obkomovskuyu.» The recipe is kept secret and did not tell anyone, but the general principles are clear. Don, as expected, is brewed in the broth of a rooster, which put the fish and tomatoes. The gorgeous «obkomovskuyu» add even sturgeon. Apart from eating fish is good even organize fishing trips.
20th km of Rostov on Don Azov