Who but Yquem?

Who but Yquem?

Chateau Suduiraut revived old

Practically there is no chateau without a mysterious history. Here and at Suduiraut available, and it dates back to 1580, when Bordeaux emerged MP Léonard de Syudyuiro married to a noble lady Nicole d’Allyar, dowry and had land on which stands the current château. His first version of some damaged during the Fronde at the beginning of the reign of Louis XIV, then at the chateau his eye Governor Admiral Duke Jean Louis de Nogaret de La Valette, forcing decrees of non-compliance of its architecture to rebuild and renew the lock. Count Blaise de Syudyuiro, who owned a chateau in those years was not poor: the result of the restructuring was one of the best castles in the region of Bordeaux, surrounded by a magnificent park. Park broke none other than Andre Le Notre, the creator of the parks of Versailles, the Tuileries and the Château de Louvois owned champagne house Laurent-Perrier.

Castle on the Rights of inheritance passed first daughter of Count Blaise, then did her nephew, nobody Joseph du Roy, who gave a short period of castle its name — it is reflected today in the inscription on the label Suduiraut: Ancien Cm du Roy. Du Roy succeeded each other, but then, this thread has interrupted the widow bequeathed the last of them a luxurious castle to his servant Nicolas Edme Guillot. He was a man of cunning Affaires: Sauternes chateau began to successfully sell, it shall buy the neighboring estate Castelnau. And this episode of history is reflected on the label, or rather, even in the title of the second wine château — Castelnau de Suduiraut. At Chateau Guillot fell into the category of Premiers Cru classification in 1855: but they also château was sold for the first time, and then the owners changed often enough and the quality of wines, alas, did not correspond to genuine Premiers Crus.

In the early 1970s, wine Suduiraut frankly not up to the level of quality Premier Cru. Family Fonkerni (Fonquernie), the then owners of the estates of Paris, did not leave this fact without attention, and in 1976 achieved the result. In 1978 he was hired by the new manager Pierre Paco (Pascaud), thanks to the efforts which are now the estate produces wines of consistently high quality.

Monsieur Fonkerni rich textile industrialist, bought the old farm in 1940, but really they became engaged in his five daughters, which drew Pierre Paco — oenologist, freak wines of Sauternes: it has always been categorically opposed to the production of the Chateau dry and white especially red wines.

In 1992, the château was acquired by AXA Millesimes, a subsidiary of the largest insurance company AXA Insurance Group (also the owner and Chateau Petit-Village, and Chateau Pichon Baron). Today, the castle is an authentic master: Christian Seely is a director and technical director (ie, in fact, the winemaker) Pierre Montague.

Christian Seely has canceled production of «special cuvée» — Cuvee Madame, which was made in 1982 and 1989 (these wines are released just 1,000 boxes from each vintage, still enjoyed great success). The meaning of the decision that if the «best grape harvest is used to produce a special cuvee, the Grand Vin most of the grapes do not get better.»

Now the park and the vineyards are in excellent condition and it is 92 hectares with a total area of ​​108. The soils are mainly sand, gravel, small patches of clay, and 25-year-old vines of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Pierre Montagu understood the main advantage of the location of the chateau, he stands on a hill close enough to the river (not, of course, like Chateau Gilette, standing right on the 6epeiy). Hence, earlier than Yquem and Rieussec, mists, and the harvest is collected in the days when the rest shatovladeltsy nervously walking along the rows of vineyards and converted botrytised berries.

The fermentation was carried out in stainless steel vats and then in the spring the wine is poured into oak barrels: there it will spend the next 2 years. Rejecting the red wines are still decided to afford «little» dry white: it is «S» de Suduiraut (hello «R» de Rieussec and «Y» d’Yquem). For years he produced only for domestic consumption, and finally decided to open the world: thus the matter and berries are collected during the pre-selection before the formation of botrytis. Sami Sauternes — it is in fact Chateau Suduiraut, the above-mentioned second wine Castelnau de Suduiraut and delicious Creme de Tete: because, like other chateau, called the most selective of the greatest vintages of wine.

Style Suduiraut — is golden transparent (color darkens with age), the first sensations of light wine, with fine acidity, and then more complex flavors. Their evolution comes from fresh fruit and flowers (the wine to 12 years) to the dried flowers and candied fruit in older wines. This development and a certain variability allows a balanced feeding Suduirat with Japanese and Chinese cuisine, in particular fish, combining the sweetness, saltiness, acidity and slight oiliness.

In 2001, not generous to assess Suduiraut in the past (75 points for 1971), but it turned out just Parker put as many as 98 points. The estimated 95 young pre-2003, today manifests itself as a full-bodied, very sweet wine with a recognizable personality.

Chateau Rieussec technology success

Today, when people talk about this castle, first of all remember that it belongs to the family of the Rothschilds, the branch, which owns a group of DBR — Domaines des Barons de Rothschild, Chateau unites such as Lafite Rothschild, Duhart-Milon, L’Evangile, Paradis Casseuil, Peyre-Lebade, Aussieres. Membership of the Rothschild group can be considered a sign of quality, but do not forget that the great Sauternes chateau that had been known for a long time, long before 1984, when a majority stake was acquired by the famous chateau family. Before the French Revolution, the castle belonged to the monks, and then was nationalized, and the owners went to change: it was and the owners of other castles of Bordeaux and the Paris bourgeoisie, and even the American amateur Sauternes F. Berry.

The penultimate owner of the chateau, Albert Vyuye, has taken a great deal to secure the glory of the estate. In the vineyards began to collect only sverhbotritizirovannye berries, introduced the practice of using new oak for aging. When Vyuye formed a recognizable style Rieussec: very dark wine with a strong honey character, powerful but elegant, very strong.

And a group of Rothschild buys the entire ivy-covered castle with a tower with 110 hectares of land (including under the vineyards only 68). Demonstration efforts have been made to improve the quality, which will be provided the best position of the lock (terroir is located very close to the Chateau d’Yquem, only slightly below the highest terroir Sauternes: and this is more sun and more intense the wind blows away the fog). 1989 is already in the new cellar, created specially to extend the period of aging in oak. He has now lasted more than two years, and three years of exposure occurs only in neighboring Yquem. It has been improved and the quality selection of grapes: volume of wine produced fell slightly.

Rothschilds never stint on technical improvements in Chateau Rieussec. When their quality has become more predictable. From innovations it is worth mentioning the installation of a small pneumatic press (grapes gags in small batches, so that the yield from certain areas as a result of vinified and aged separately, meaning more quality selection of wines before blending), a significant expansion of the cellar, which has become a two-story (it is possible to increase the duration of aging in oak up to 18-26 months depending on the vintage).

The result was the very masterpiece, Chateau Rieussec 2001, a 100-point wine, finishing in 2004 the first place in the Top 100 Wine Spectator.

Fermentation, and it should be noted, is held only in oak barrels, the same as those used in the Chateau Lafite. 60% new oak, holding for 30 months — this is the formula of the great Sauternes, which is so fond of critics and lovers of all exquisite, luxurious, expensive. According to the rules of big Bordeaux chateau has been made and the diversification of wines for a leader, Chateau Rieussec (6000 boxes per year), followed, and Chateau de la Cosse — absolutely worthy second wine, too Sauternes (from 2,000 to 6,000 cases a year), and then and R de Rieussec, clear his name of a dry white wine.

Chateau Gilette time flows slowly

To understand why this is so, it is not difficult at all, because the wine extract are at least 18 years in the concrete. «Oak is not compatible with Sauternes and millezimnyh styling Chateau Gilette» — so says his current owner Julie Gonet-Medvil. Naturally, the young Madame Julie did not take it from the ceiling: it is a multi-year family tradition dating back to World War II. Went to war in 1940, he said Grandma Julie: «Sauternes cast in concrete vats, do not touch anything.» France lost the war, my grandfather came back pretty soon. But no bottles, no traffic jams, no barrels were not already bottled the wine confiscated the Nazis, and the early postwar years were not easy. It turned out that millezim 1937 held in barrels more than a decade: the spill as it by the end of 1940, the owners have noticed an incredible subtlety, wealth, elegance of this wine (now Chateau Gilette-Rene Medeville considered one of the finest and rarest old from Ternes ). The same part of the «wine war» that has been left in the tanks prior to 1960, came out even better. Since he was born a unique style Chateau Gilette: soak for 20 years and no oak. The fact that the presence of barrels in the cellars is not necessarily, Julie Gonet-Medvil proves quite clearly. The good work millezim botrytis wine creates light, fruity, delicate aromas and flavors, which does not require additional accentuation using oak. Another «defect» of oak, which is located here, is for many winemakers his advantage: wood breathing, the wine is saturated with oxygen, and a concrete vat completely sealed, and it is not open for 20 years.

But the main chateau — it’s vineyards, cared for particularly carefully selected berries literally every day, to get a quality autumn and abundant botrytis. «Once you are well looked after by vineyards and right at the right time, harvested, do not need to do anything special,» — says Julie. «Fermentation runs classical method at low temperature in stainless steel vats. Botrytised grapes fermented at all for a long time, and the process can take six, and nine months. «

Four hectares of vineyards (the remaining 26 hectares of the estate are Chateau Respide-Medeville appellasona Graves) with minimum yield, which dictate the conditions for the appearance of botrytis, give very little wine. For example, a chan 1987 contains only 14 hectoliters, and it would be almost more than 2000 bottles of Sauternes. Most wine, of course, several times greater, from 30 to 50 hl, but anyway it is one concrete vat.

Millezim One of the two in recent years Chateau Gilette considers great, so that soon will be released the new Sauternes every two years: a successful 1987 is expected by the end of the decade will be bottled and 1989. Medvil family loves and millezim 1983, the perfect expression of botrytised wines and a thin, delicate and 1985, and the already mentioned «war» in 1937, that Madame Gon-Medvil considers eternal. His most millezim old chateau, which goes back to the days when Sauternes made «for himself» — is 1893, which is stored in the cellar of his grandfather. This property of Sauternes, and is said here is an extract in a sealed concrete vats provides wines Chateau Gilette particular resistance and «eternal youth.» It could not miss the critics and experts of the wine market — an incredibly rare in the market Gilette bottle is a real struggle. But as some of them spoke, Robert Parker: 1950 — «well-built with a deep velvety aftertaste»; 1959 — «dekadenskoe wine — a pot of honey»; 1962 — «a complex nose of honey filled with decadent apricot tones, possible only thanks to the abundant noble rot»; 1967 — «decadent rich wine with luscious fleshy tissue, balanced acidity necessary measure»; 1975 — «the wine is sweeter than it seems, but with a mature acidity it looks stunningly rich, full-bodied, very fresh Sauternes, sharp as a razor blade.»

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