Champagne in a duet

WHITE diversity

Recognizing the champagne for the title of royal wine, it is often, particularly in Russia, play the role of King aperitifs. But the champagne can be as much gastronomic variation as aromas and flavors can be found at its best.

At the end of the XX century on the gastronomic fate of champagne thinking leading chefs of the world, and France — Bocuse, Ducasse, Troisgros, Gagnaire et al. Tasting Champagne, conducted the great houses are getting more interesting thanks to the participation of the great chefs and their faithful companions sommelier offering to the wines of Champagne unusual variations of dishes from seemingly all long familiar simple products.

Such creativity is possible only because the number of styles of champagne is really huge. A different vintages and imagination in making the best assemblages maotre de chais complement this almost infinite palette. Hence the numerous variations in dishes that chefs prepare a certain champagnes.


Blanc de Blancs has long won the hearts of professionals. Many of them have recognized that this is their favorite champagne, because they are always looking for an elegant lightness and grace almost imperceptible fragrances — and this is all found in the Blanc de Blancs. Deli around the world agree: champagne from chardonnay — only on seafood. But how and in what form — is a matter of taste, as long as the dish was quite clear and does not eclipse the wine. So says the great Parisian chef and F and Martin: For a blanc de blanc — a favorite champagne, elegant but easy as the music of Offenbach, it can be an aperitif, creating mood, or to accompany simple snacks like oysters. However, all depends on the perception and especially quality and Blanc de Blancs: his best samples for T and March — this is Bach played by Glenn Gould, is a symphony in the bottle, so to millezimnyh Blanc de Blancs, he advises to file something like grilled lobster with juicy mango and cilantro.

That’s the best sommelier of the world in the current version of the Swede Andreas Larsson admits that Blanc de Blanc — his favorite champagne (not surprising for a representative of a «sea» of nations in Europe). Andreas at the Christmas table prefers to Blanc de Blancs and a salad with lobster: the usual lettuce lobster meat with a light sauce of vinegar, apples and peanuts. Scandinavian seafood Larsson recommends fillet of smoked salmon with cream cheese and horseradish: fresh, elegant taste of the North Sea under the refreshing elegant Blanc de Blancs. By the way, light salmon rolls with cream, lemon and sliced ​​thin thread horseradish and chives prepared and Patrick Michelon (Berceau restaurant in the «capital of Champagne» Epernay). For this delicate snacks are millezimnye Blanc de Blancs as Delamotte Blanc de Blanc Millesime 1999 — its rich, lively, harmonious flavor is right to smoky notes of smoked salmon.

Besides salmon, other seafood Larson recommends oysters, especially fat, such as red wine sauce. If you want to apply to wine cheese, it is necessary to choose the most soft and light, such as French Brie.


The sauce of white light wine does not hurt the dish under the blanc de blanc. So says Patrick Bertron, the successor of tragically deceased Bernard Loiseau in Burgundy Relais Bernard Loiseau. Burgundy Sea from far away, so the best choice, according appreciates terroir cuisine chef — it tails of crayfish sauce Savannah, white wine from the neighboring Zhyury.

Crustaceans — a favorite theme and Alain Ducasse. He prefers to assemble the Blanc de Blancs, which clearly plays a freshness, liveliness, mineral, and sometimes even a certain density of different vintages. In its Plaza Athenee to champagne selected by sommelier Laurent Rukerolem, served pocket crabs, royal langoustines and sea spiders without shell with caviar. And some Cuvee Laurent recommends and Bresse chicken.


So, seafood is still the only option for the Blanc de Blancs, but most of them will not give up, successfully combining artful combinations. For Anne-Sophie Pic from the balance sheet (southeast France) offers ice cream black truffle and foie gras ravioli with light: stuffing — tuna with spices, shell — jelly. The exquisitely prepared and served mushrooms also have something that allows you to choose a great combination with the Blanc de Blancs: Ann Co-fi believes that this issue can and should be developed. With her colleague solidarity Jean-Noel Prabon from the southwest of France, he offers as an appetizer blanc de blanc and rosé, and to them — souffle wild mushrooms and artichokes.


Style rose not at all close to the Blanc de Blancs, but is applied to an aperitif on elegant banquets exactly these two champagnes are the competitors: on the comments of David Biro, chief sommelier Parisian Hotel de Crillon, 80% of champagne in the leading gastronomic restaurants are sold by the glass, in mainly as an aperitif, and two-thirds of champagne, which is bought as an aperitif, and not only in the Hotel de Crillon — this is the rose. Unlike the Rose Blanc de Blancs, combined with meat: for example, to Alexandra Brut Rose, according to chefs nonane-Kurovskiy Chateau de Louvois, can be safely fed back juicy lamb with truffles, or pigeon breast. But at the very eminent in Champagne Chateau de Crayeres (** Michelin) besides Alexandra chef Didier Elena, having worked at the time in Russia, will recommend to the familiar in the case of Blanc de Blancs variation: fillet of sea spider with caviar or royal langoustines. And the boss, and the sommelier to choose from in their preferences.

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